Gogarth climbing Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff Mar 15, 2016 · Gogarth South is an excellent guide that makes plain that I – and probably you - haven’t spent enough time climbing above the Irish Sea. Holyhead Mountain is a smaller and friendlier part of Gogarth, that is often many climbers first introduction to climbing on quartzite. Start at the base of the zawn at the left-hand side of a cave. Feb 22, 2019 · Heather Ohlyon the final pitch of Resolution Direct (E2 5b, 5b, 5b; 5. Climb up to the overhanging crack - very hard in damp conditions when you may require a 'rest'. This cliff has been seen by many as insignificant, but don’t be put off or get too excited all the major lines and less major ones have been climbed. Mar 8, 2017 · The photo of Jock and Al was taken on an incredible climb in Anglesey on Gogarth in North Wales sea cliffs . Climb Grade # Recorded Ascents First Recorded Ascent Last Recorded Ascent; The Hollow Man: E8: 5: 2nd October 1986 29th July 2023 Adam showing us he has mastered trad climbing after a five day sort to trad conversion course, as he styles his way across the final pitch of A Dream of White Horses, Wen Zawn, Gogarth. 1. A very different experience from the Gogarth sea cliffs, but the Holyhead Mountain crags provide some good, albeit short, routes of all grades on variable quality rock. The route in question is of the boldest, and consequently least repeated, trad climbs in Britain, and what makes Matheson's ascent absolutely mind blowing is not only the fact that he has summoned up the courage to make this dangerous lead, but also that he is 74 years old! The sea cliffs of Gogarth,situated on the western tip of Anglesey are the stuff of legend. Dec 31, 2024 · One of the most impressive and important sea cliffs in the world! A huge adventure fest of partially tidal climbing, extending across Gogarth Bay. Move across this and around the right arete then head for the belay on The Moon. These stunning pieces of art can be purchased for £6. Traverse this rightwards until you can reach up for another break. Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade; Martin Boysen: Alternate Leads 4th Apr 1964 My Logbook Search Climb/Crags Find Crag Map Latest Ascents Recent Top Ascents Conditions Updates Videos Activity Diary Guidebooks Help Forums Rock climbing on Gogarth in Wales, one of the best sea cliffs in Britain. Climbing Emulator won't interfere with the fledgling but you'll want to move quickly on if traversing over to routes further along on Main Cliff. It is one of the greatest climbing cliffs in the U. Jan 3, 2025 · A synopsis on BBC iPlayer reads: 'Tensions flare in the North Wales climbing community when a steel bolt appears on a sea cliff in Anglesey. A late-afternoon ascent will often allow the sun to help with this. Climbing History Climbers; I have never been so totally frightened in all my years climbing, as I Jan 23, 2025 · A Wild Country padded bandolier was my most unused bit of climbing gear for about the 20 years that it sat unused in one of my climbing boxes until the long tail of some Facebook outdoor gear sale page turned up some sucker who would pay a quid on top of p&p for it! (p. Day 1: Lighthouse Arete Direct, Castell Helen We had a chilled out start to the day due to having had a long day the day before, which was followed by a few whiskies due to it being my birthday. Gogarth is famed for its consistently wild and occasionally serious routes, and it is definitely suited the more experienced climber. Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade; Martin Boysen: Alternate Leads 4th Apr 1964 Sep 12, 2019 · Plus the route would suit them – no crack climbing on this one, slabs and adventure climbing exactly like they'd been training on in the slate quarries and at Gogarth. Dec 1, 2020 · Watch Pete Whittaker and Calum Muskett embark on a horizontal journey to establish Britain’s biggest roof climb. The document has moved here. The rock (quartzite) is similar to the better parts of Gogarth but without so much sea-grass. Climb the first pitch of Dinosaur through its crux section but then traverse back right to gain a flake which leads up into the second pitch of The Big Sleep. Go on a diet for this one. You'd have to add The Bells (as the best route at Gogarth) and The Hollow Man in the E7 category. 1) 5a, 40m. Rockfax Description The first E7 in the UK goes up the wall right of The Cad after starting up that route. Start at a tiny flake/groove. 10c), one of the finest multi-pitch adventures at Gogarth in North Wales. The sea cliffs of Gogarth are situated on the western tip of Anglesey and provide an impressive range if exciting 'trad' routes - the guide describes 600 routes complimented by full colour photo-diagrams; there are extensive area maps and individual crag Dec 31, 2024 · Good open climbing up the huge slab in the centre of the zawn. If you're in Wales, do this route. Follow the Sarah Green Start to Blue Peter to the junction with the latter and arrange protection. In this short film Tom Livingstone, Ian Craigie and James Taylor sample the delights of some of best routes at Gogarth and nearby crags, discovering what makes it such an amazing place to climb. r A long reach is helpful, or even , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Gogarth life list , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 Feedback Always Hide βeta Jan 24, 2025 · North Wales Climbs. Buy now from The BMC Shop The Gogarth South Rock Climbing Guidebook is the definitive guidebook covering all the trad rock climbing in southern Gogarth including the famous cliffs of Mousetrap Zawn, Red Wall, Castell Helen and Yellow Wall Gogarth South covers the series of cliffs running southwards from Gogarth Bay past the South Stack lighthouse, around The Range and on to Rhoscolyn. Jun 4, 2021 · Climb Grade # Recorded Ascents First Recorded Ascent Last Recorded Ascent; The Hollow Man: E8: 5: 2nd October 1986 29th July 2023 Here at Golden Gecko, we believe that climbing isn’t just an activity – it’s a shared experience. 43m. Apr 16, 2025 · Crag features. Many routes are described in the Gogarth South guide. North Wales Climbs spans the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. Climb to the top of the groove, place a high wire, move back down and step out onto the wall. Feb 27, 2009 · Gogarth Main Cliff poster Ground Up have just received delivery of a batch of Gogarth Main Cliff posters. A massive linking pitch on Main Cliff at Gogarth. Where big and commiting lines sort the men from the boyz. Apr 15, 2025 · That gives you sea cliff climbing at Gogarth, long mountain routes and slate quarries around the Llanberis Pass and gritstone in the Peak, with the least amount of driving possible. These beautiful and atmospheric crags are famed for their adventur Rob Matheson has made an astonishing repeat of The Bells, The Bells! at Gogarth in North Wales. The 2023 edition covers all these areas building on the successful 2013 edition Apr 20, 2020 · Perhaps spending it in Gogarth, the premier sea-cliff climbing destination in North Wales. Climb Grade # Recorded Ascents First Recorded Ascent Last Recorded Ascent; The Hollow Man: E8: 5: 2nd October 1986 29th July 2023: Hardback Thesaurus: E8: 3: 15th May 1988 1st January 1990: Extinction: E8: 3: 1st January 1991 1st June 1991: Vital Statistix: E8: 1: The Super Calabrese: E8: 1: 16th October 1986 Jan 3, 2025 · The Bells! The Bells! is an E7 Trad climb at Gogarth in the United Kingdom. Rock climbing in Wales is very much split into a north – south divide, and includes every style of climbing to choose from. Mar 20, 2023 · Nick Bullock now drinks red wine only in moderation before climbing at Gogarth. Climb up the crack and gain the first break-line. Start below and slightly to the left of the compelling crack that cuts a swathe through the lichenous carpet. It's also a good place to climb on a sunny winter's day, as the crags are south facing and catch the sun. Micro wires are essential. Start below a vague line of flakes running up to the corner of The Big Groove. The sea cliffs of Craig Gogarth run along the northwest corner of the island of Anglesey, reached on the A5 by crossing the Menai Straits on the world's first great suspension bridge, built in 1826 by Thomas Telford. Read more Nick Bullock: Sandbagged on North Wales Choss; A Roadblock, A Drug Dog, and a Car Full of… Worst Nightmare? A Grizzly Attack in the Cold Wilds One of the most amazing routes at Gogarth - involved, adventurous but never desperate, and the geology is marvellous. 20/06/2025 - 22/06/2025 All day . Places. Follow The Cad up the initial shallow groove to surmount the small overlap and gain a reasonable spike runner in the wall above. That way avoids loose rock, is well-protected and gives excellent climbing. s. Whether it be a private rock climbing guiding or a lEad Climbing Coaching. 4 days ago · South Stack is the home of several protected species of birds nesting in Mousetrap Zawn and Red Walls. Rockfax Description A great route, the most popular on the Upper Tier. Nov 11, 2009 · Climbing at Gogarth is all about the experience, ie. In reply to richard kirby: I did Puzzle Me Quick about 20 yrs ago when it was an E3 according to the Gogarth 1982 supplement by Geoff Milburn. Climb Grade # Recorded Ascents First Recorded Ascent Last Recorded Ascent; The Hollow Man: E8: 5: 2nd October 1986 29th July 2023 Many of my happiest days climbing are spent soaring above the seas, as the diamonds of sunlight dance over the waves. 18/06/2010 - Climbing. Trend diagonally out left then out right to an orange quartzy break (crucial 2. h Fluttery climbing with big fall potential and scary run-outs. 4b. Personally I would ignore suggestions for Scotland, Lakes, Pembroke, Cornwall etc - there's not enough time in a week to fit it all in. It is very bold and serious. This sea cliff classic combines delicate traverses, exposed positions, and thrilling pitches, providing an unforgettable adventure high above the crashing waves of the Irish Sea. Up left to overlap and traverse right. A stunning pitch. Skinhead has all of these. Even though the development of this cliff started only in the 1960's, its role as a bastion of British trad climbing is undeniable. A serious route - gear is scarce and the top-out can be dangerous. Providing an unparalleled range of exciting traditional routes in a beautiful and atmospheric location, the Gogarth North guide details over 300 new routes done on the various Anglesey sea cliffs since the last definitive guide was produced to the area nearly 20 years “Climbing calls are revised at Gogarth ‘breaking’ be a lot more common than taking in” From Ed Douglas’s glorious commentary to the film Gogarth. Mar 20, 2023 · Gym Climbing; Magazine; More . Exposed on pitch 5. Mar 17, 2025 · Crag features. The Gogarth South climbing guidebook covers the series of cliffs running southwards from Gogarth Bay and includes over 630 action packed routes. 95 initially from V12 Outdoor in Llanberis and very soon from other key climbing shops and climbing walls around the UK. Focus is on single-pitch Extremes with big Gogarth feel, yet without the grip-factor experienced elsewhere on the Gogarth cliffs. Jan 3, 2025 · The Bells! is an E7 Trad climb at Gogarth in the United Kingdom. From the right-hand end of the half-height ledge, climb up to another large break. This volume describes wonderful series of crags running south from the South Stack lighthouse and around the Range to Rhoscolyn and is an essential companion to the Gogarth North. The belay pegs however are significantly past their sell-by date. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Feedback comments are intended to give extra information about a route which may be helpful to other climbers. βeta? Show beta βeta: This route is best done in one, two or three pitches, starting up Central Park, moving right into the crack of Street Survivor, then carrying on up the crack of Central Park. Sea Cliff climbing venues: For traditional climbing, we normally go to Holyhead Mountain, Rhoscolyn and Gogarth in Anglesey. Holyhead Mountain and Rhoscolyn have easier access and feel less intimidating than Gogarth. Rock climbing on Gogarth in Wales, one of the best sea cliffs in Britain. Co-ordinators; Dominic and Helen Oughton. The Cad is an E6 Trad climb at Gogarth in the United Kingdom. Climb Grade # Recorded Ascents First Recorded Ascent Last Recorded Ascent; The Hollow Man: E8: 5: 2nd October 1986 29th July 2023: Hardback Thesaurus 2 pitches. Should be properly considered before climbing the route, no way to escape off the pitch. Take plenty of long slings. The route in question is of the boldest, and consequently least repeated, trad climbs in Britain, and what makes Matheson's ascent absolutely mind blowing is not only the fact that he has summoned up the courage to make this dangerous lead, but also that he is 74 years old! Mar 8, 2017 · Fantastic climbing with adequate protection on the steep right arete of the wall. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the Ormes of Llandudno. Further along in the zawn west of I am Curious Yellow. From its top, traverse rightwards along a break, through impressive terrain, to a corner. Aug 5, 2008 · In climbing the route, Raboutou becomes the first woman to climb a route at 9b+, marking the first time that a new grade has been broken into within women's sport climbing since Angela Eiter's ascent of La Planta de Shiva in 2017. com - The World of Stevie Haston. For many climbers this section of sea cliff is one of the most impressive in the UK with routes that match the stature of the cliffs. Breaking these restrictions could ruin the birds’ breeding, jeopardise future climbing at the site and lead to bad climbing karma. Holy Island, just off Anglesey is home to my favourite collection of these cliffs, named Gogarth. Gogarth. ) From the team that published the hugely popular North Wales Rock comes this new guide, Gogarth North. Consequently, some crags will have climbing restrictions on certain areas or climbs. We are built Mar 3, 2020 · Remarkably Andrew returned to his great passion of rock climbing and here he revisits his favorite sea cliff venue, Gogarth near Holyhead in North Wales to attempt one of the great rock climbs in the UK called "A Dream of White Horses". May 7, 2025 · Rockfax Description A stunning climb for the grade. Nov 23, 2017 · What’s more the veritable home of sea cliff climbing in the world, Gogarth is just outside Snowdonia in North Wales. 2) 5b, 20m. Rob Matheson has made an astonishing repeat of The Bells, The Bells! at Gogarth in North Wales. We are built Jan 11, 2011 · Stevie Haston has an article series at UKClimbing. Climbing grades: E3, E5, 6a+ I think Swanage is one of the most underrated crags in the U. ) Aug 30, 2017 · This was a proper road-trip – from the Star in St Just to the urban climbing of the Avon Gorge. 1) 4c, 12m. The Gogarth North guidebook is a climbing guide to the glorious sea cliffs of Gogarth, situated on the western tip of Anglesey. Making Matheson’s ascent even more noteworthy is that he’s 74 years old. The sea cliffs of Gogarth on Anglesey provide some of the most adventurous and exciting climbing in the UK. Dream of White horses is the absolute Gogarth Classic, the climbing is awesome, the positions are mind blowing and if you fancy it let us know and we will guide you up this 'must do before you die' route. The very first climb on Gogarth. The 100-meter, three-pitch route route requires squeezing, chimneys, cracks, and big British sea cliff adventure. Here at Golden Gecko, we believe that climbing isn’t just an activity – it’s a shared experience. Apr 26, 2025 · U. Bring plenty of sling draws/extending runners. The idea was to make a film about A Dream of White Horses (HVS 5a), a classic route on one of the UK's most famous crags, but with a special twist. The variety of crags, routes and styles is almost unmatched spanning the major mountain crags in Llanberis Pass, Cloggy, Ogwen, Moelwyns and the Carneddau; to the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the Ormes of Llandudno. Show beta βeta: Ropework + exposure + fall consequences for P4 is serious. The escarpment runs just below the summit of Holyhead Mountain, which is a grand name for this hill above the port town of Holyhead. Hence there is a local ban on climbing from 1 Feb to 31 July inclusive. A selection of fine easier-grade climbs exist too. Oct 3, 2024 · Gogarth Climbing Meet. The sea cliffs of Gogarth,situated on the western tip of Anglesey are the stuff of legend. napoleon_dynamite 16 May, 2021 Gogarth North. 1) 4b, 30m. Jul 26, 2015 · The first pitch was straightforward climbing and I would have skipped out the first belay but as there was a team in front of us I decided to make use of the belay, to get away from the uncomfortable stance we had on the right hand side of the high tide ledge. Less popular than it deserves - the climbing is sustained and bold in places. Made famous by a spectacular picture in one of the Royal Robbins Rockcraft books. Start on the right side of the large pinnacle at the right hand end of the main cliff. A great route, with some exciting climbing up the big groove bounding the left side of the steeper section of the Main Cliff. Nick Bullock: The Trouble With Me "Exploding pieces of metal hit me like bullets. This climb starts on top of the big cliff is a wild descent right at the edge of the sea and it is a tricky place to get to. Ive always felt that setting up the ab into locations like Red Wall(the 80m ab) and Yellow Walls is part of the skill set and adventure. George Smith, Martin Crook, October 2013. 5a. Here’s what you need to know. Jul 21, 2015 · Due to the weather crapping out in Snowdonia, after a brilliant day on Lliwedd we headed over to Gogarth for two days of sea cliff climbing. I might be biased, as it’s so local to my hometown in Southampton, but I think it’s got all the adventure and excitement of sea-cliff climbing routes in Gogarth and Pembrokeshire — but in Dorset. 20m. Its needs a long dry spell for the initial crack to not be damp. 2) 5b, 44m. Route - North West Passage E1 The Gogarth North climbing guide details over 500 route including 300 new routes on the various Anglesey sea cliffs. Dream of White Horses HVS 4c, Wen Slab, Gogarth: Dream of White Horses is an exhilarating climb that follows a stunning line across the sea cliffs of Wen Zawn. Good climbing up pockets on the first pitch but a friable and serious second pitch. So if you’d like to climb ‘A Dream of White Horses’ or just experience what it is like to climb where the sea meets the sky, and be caught ‘twixt the devil and the deep blue sea then this course is for you. Dec 31, 2024 · Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , High Quality Adventure routes , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Extreme 2018 , Adventure ticklist 2018 , The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside) , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade So what is it like to climb T Rex, the famous Gogarth testpiece? Find out in this short film starring sea-cliff climbing aficionados Trevor Massiah and Ruth Who has a true passion for all things climbing in North Wales. route finding, some dodgey pro, strong feelings of being pushed to the limit and, at times, really feeling scared and of course the outcome is never guaranteed. Patch's memories of those years climbing revolve around the community he became a part of, and the mentors who guided him. Oct 29, 2020 · Anyone climbing at Gogarth, including Castell Helen needs to be prepared for trad sea-cliff climbing. Start to the left of Mousetrap, below a large groove. They are a companion to the recently published Gogarth North The Big Groove is an E3 Trad climb at Gogarth in the United Kingdom. The Hollowman at Gogarth on tiny Holy Island just off Anglesey in North Wales is a very serious route, providing technical climbing rated at E8 6c, something in the region of French 7b/+, with very poor protection. Aug 11, 2013 · The climbing felt steadier the further I progressed with plenty of time to compose myself between moves. Start down and right of the first pitch of Gogarth. The climbing at Gogarth is a series of complex quartzite sea cliffs situated around the North and South Stack lighthouses, Rhoscolyn, plus some outcrop climbing on Holyhead Mountain. This is because the rock quality at Gogarth is notoriously variable, often within a single route. Panton, ground up The glorious sea cliffs of Gogarth, situated on the western tip of Anglesey, provide an impressive range of exciting traditional routes. An engaging piece of climbing with adequate protection. Gogarth is an E1 Trad climb at Gogarth in the United Kingdom. 5 cam slot). Jan 31, 2024 · North Wales is one of the most popular climbing areas in the country. Once you start sanitising it at one location it will creep to other locations. It is these along with many of the classic routes that we use on our climbing courses. I remember an OK 1st pitch followed by a long and sustained 2nd pitch. The glorious sea cliffs of Gogarth, 360 pages, language english, edition 2015, S. 48m. She looked in the zone all the way and to see her beaming smile at the top of the route was one of the highlights of the day. 2. Feb 25, 2018 · Mark reeves climbing the amazing Sea Sea Bubble, E3 5c, one of the more ameniable and better protected routes at North Stack Wall, Gogarth. So scary, the most I Jan 23, 2025 · A Wild Country padded bandolier was my most unused bit of climbing gear for about the 20 years that it sat unused in one of my climbing boxes until the long tail of some Facebook outdoor gear sale page turned up some sucker who would pay a quid on top of p&p for it! (p. 3rd October 2024 Helen Pritchard. We haven't done much sea cliff climbing all, and I just wanted to get some advice on it to make sure we're not doing anything stupid and will have the best time possible. A great route that is one of the easier lines on Main Cliff, although the approach and climbing are committing and shouldn't be underestimated. May 13, 2009 · Gogarth North (Ground Up, 2008) – a definitive guide covering the cliffs from Holyhead Mountain and across the Gogarth Bay, and then round the North Stack promontory. 5 days ago · The climbing is adventurous and occasionally on loose rock, although it is far more solid than some of the South Stack cliffs. 1) 5a, 55m. s Sustained climbing; either lots of hard moves or steep rock giving pumpy climbing. Anna made fine work of the climb on second. Start to the left of Scavenger near the base of the arete. The original line that gets close to climbing the top section of the concrete chimney. The Gogarth experience distilled down into smaller, easily digestible portions. Read more Nick Bullock: Sandbagged on North Wales Choss; A Roadblock, A Drug Dog, and a Car Full of… Worst Nightmare? A Grizzly Attack in the Cold Wilds Varied in style and standard. It also includes a series of smaller sea cliffs dotted along the north coast of Anglesey. Sea-cliffs weren’t new to us – Mark and I had climbed in Pembrokeshire, and a year or two before we’d scared ourselves on Gogarth during a three day stopover in the Holyhead ferry terminal. ) , Trad on every UK island , ICAS Climbing Club , Hobo Unicorn Essentials , Pre-MIA Wishlist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Libby Peter's VS Hit List , 2020/21 Trips , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. Apr 2, 2007 · In the case of the Gogarth wiki it is the climbing community we are aimed at and those that have a love for one of the most splendid sea cliffs in the world. Simon Panton (ed. We want our climbers to reach new heights, and enjoy all the centre has to offer whilst welcoming new climbers into this shared space. The climbing is sustained although the gear is good. We also offer guiding and coaching across this route. This section can be badly affected by swell from the ferry, so low tide recommended. The lower section is tackled by the route Rubble, E7 which is well named! Start by abseiling down to belay just below the belay at the top of the first pitch of Wen, or climb Wen to this point. Scramble up to a ledge left of a short wall split by a crack, right of a corner. . A fine route with varied and interesting climbing. The route is most likely typically wet in a few locations so expect damp rock. I’m dropping Oct 29, 2020 · Anyone climbing at Gogarth, including Castell Helen needs to be prepared for trad sea-cliff climbing. The A55 Britannia Bridge is also worthy of mention. Climb Grade # Recorded Ascents First Recorded Ascent Last Recorded Ascent; The Hollow Man: E8: 5: 2nd October 1986 29th July 2023 Feedback comments are intended to give extra information about a route which may be helpful to other climbers. A peaceful and very easily accessible area offering a huge variety of short but adventurous single pitch routes from easy slabs to steep caves, with a particularly wide selection of easier routes (a good alternative to Gogarth) as well as some exciting testpieces. Half the book cruelly details the great routes on cliffs that are already famous, perhaps notorious: No match for crag id:"Mousetrap Zawn" , Red Walls Left and Right, No match for crag id:"Castell Helen If you've had an interesting experience on the sea-cliffs of Gogarth, Holyhead Mountain is a good way to relax, as it's simple cragging. if you're out there, hope you've enjoyed the bandolier more than me. Rock climbing in Squamish, Canada. These areas offer adventure climbing at its very best and there are all types of routes: tidal or non-tidal, single or multi-pitch. This can include 'βeta' which is crucial information about the route which may be how to do a move, or tips about hidden holds or gear. I began climbing here and I always relish returning. Providing an unparalleled range of exciting traditional routes in a beautiful and atmospheric location, the Gogarth North guide details over 300 new routes done on the various Anglesey sea cliffs since the last Apr 10, 2019 · Don't go looking for trilobites at Gogarth though, focus on whether that jug you're holding is going to snap off, or whether your gear will hold a fall. Follow an obvious series of overlaps out leftwards passing some small wires until it is possible to pull around onto the edge of the wall. Adam Riches on the imposing final pitch of Dream of White Horses, with its wild exposure it really is one of the best pitches of HVS climbing anywhere. Climb Grade # Recorded Ascents First Recorded Ascent Last Recorded Ascent; The Hollow Man: E8: 5: 2nd October 1986 29th July 2023 Gogarth North. It is home to some of the most magical climbs in the area. Follow the vague groove up to the next break, before continuing on to the left-hand end of the half-height ledge. It is important climbers continue contributing towards their protection by observing the negotiated nesting restrictions which apply to a number of cliffs. North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , The Road to Shibboleth , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , 30 For My 30s , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. In this short film by Nadir Khan, Tom Livingstone and friends sample the delights of some The first time you abseil into one of its many cliffs, you are totally blown away by the size and shear atmosphere of the place. Aug 13, 2008 · Beautifully named and a true North Welsh classic - and not even in the mountains of Snowdonia. Stevie is sharing his climbing life, from the very beginnings described in this first article, through the slate scene of North Wales in the 1980's, passing by the valley of Chamonix and his cutting edge alpine ascents and landing firmly at the World class sport climbing achievements that have shot him once Dec 31, 2024 · 1) 5b, 28m. Apr 6, 2023 · Hey all - looking for some advice on Gogarth! Heading down to N. We also intend to try and make this site a bit more user oriented, with the ability for individual to help contribute to the site. View Calendar. From the arete, follow the line of least resistance up to the left-hand end of the long ledge, and move to its right-hand end and belay below the corner of Scavenger. Mar 23, 2021 · Although you’re itching to climb, the birds may need a little longer to raise their young. Our aim is to offer an amazing climbing experience to the beginner or the seasoned climber. This is one of the main events at Gogarth, and consists of a sweep of rock that goes uninterupted for over one mile from the Upper Tier right to North Stack Wall. Approach for South Stack: Turn left off the A5 at the Valley traffic lights, three miles from Holyhead, and follow the B4545 to Trearddur Bay. This story is adapted from his book Echoes, available for purchase here. A mixture of rock-types, not dissimilar to that of Gogarth South Stack. A bulge is climbed with difficulty to gain the ledge above; easier climbing leads up and rightwards via a wide groove. climber Rob Matheson has climbed The Bells, The Bells!, a notoriously fearsome trad route graded E7 6b on North Stack Wall at Gogarth. May 13, 2023 · 5. Moved Permanently. Rhodri, a passionate adventure climber is totally against using bolts, but he's desperate to get the first ascent on a new climbing route, one that could really change his fortunes and the future of his marriage is dependent on raising enough money to Jun 5, 2020 · In May 2019, Climb Cornwall Director, Jay, was involved in a film project with Bristol-based drone pilot and film producer David Linnett, of Bald Eagle Productions. Climb the left wall of the groove, trending left to a break on the arete. Start 8m right of a prominent square block on the sea-level traverse, and underneath a vague line of flakes trending rightwards. Wales for 4 days and want to do a day or two at Gogarth. These beautiful and atmospheric crags are famed for their adventur Extreme Rock , North Wales Super Route E6's , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , James' 2015 Summer. Along with the information from the wiki sites he developed for various other climbing areas. news archive Gogarth's seacliffs contain some of the most important breeding seabird colonies in Europe. More . It includes famous cliffs such as Mousetrap Zawn, Red Wall, Castell Helen and Yellow Wall, but also showcases several less well known zawns. Bring plenty of sling draws/extending runners Mar 20, 2023 · Nick Bullock now drinks red wine only in moderation before climbing at Gogarth. Climb Grade # Recorded Ascents First Recorded Ascent Last Recorded Ascent; The Hollow Man: E8: 5: 2nd October 1986 29th July 2023: Hardback Thesaurus , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. This site is addressing an issue that has been at the forefront of many Gogarth devotees for some time, that of an up to date guidebook. Up the wide crack in the corner to belay on top of the pinnacle. 2) 5c, 24m. K. It tackles the obvious deep crack above the start of the House Trap traverse. f Fingery climbing with significant small holds on the hard sections. Mainly single pitch routes to 50 metres. Resolution Direct is an unrelenting expedition up gigantic quartzite flakes on Gogarth’s tallest section. Whilst Gogarth is known for its adventurous routes it is also home to some lesser challenges. User Date Notes; SteveSBlake: 1 Jun, 2021: Show βeta βeta: This is a fantastic route with a fun approach and great climbing. A brilliant beginners crag that should be a must for any novice climber wanting an ‘easy’ introducion to sea cliff climbing. See Ground Up Gogarth North p72; “a committing and fairly dirty prospect”. Including famous cliffs such as Mousetrap Zawn, Red Wall, Castell Helen and Yellow Wall, the Gogarth South guide also showcases several less well known zawns. , Jonesy's leg day ticklist , Gogarth life list , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Bold Tradprenticeship , Wales Trip - 2022 , Dunc's ticklist , Bold Tradprenticeship 2: Don't fall off the "Don't fall off" bit , Gogarth hit-list , Matt's North Wales Motivation p Powerful climbing; roofs, steep rock, low lock-offs or long moves off small holds. Dec 15, 2017 · However, Gogarth is not all about stomach churning, adrenalin-inducing loose rock and fear. * Over 630 action packed routes * Full colour topos Gogarth South re-print - 13/12/2015 Printer errors on topos leads to recall Gogarth South first copy arrives 11/10/2015 Gogarth South - slight delay in delivery 20/09/2015 Gogarth South due 21st September 31/08/2015. Although if the waves are big the climb may be wet. Quite committing with a difficult scramble descent to the base, well worth having a few grades "in hand" for a first visit! Main Cliff eventually turns into Easter Island Gully Area. Dec 15, 2017 · The White Cliff – A book about the climbing at Gogarth, with a contribution by SMG Owner Mark Reeves Llion Morris climbing the classic Rap, VS, on Castell Helen, sister route to Pel, both of which rouchly follw the abseil line. Climb juggy rock then the crack in the arete to join Gogarth briefly at the shallow groove. The sea cliffs of Gogarth are situated on the western tip of Anglesey and provide an impressive range if exciting 'trad' routes - the guide describes 600 routes complimented by full colour photo-diagrams; there are extensive area maps and individual crag Who has a true passion for all things climbing in North Wales. 1) 5a, 35m. This monstrous pitch takes you all the way to the bucket seat belay above the diagonal traverse on the main Positron pitch. Skip to the bottom of the page if you want to watch the video before reading on The Gogarth North guidebook is a climbing guide to the glorious sea cliffs of Gogarth, situated on the western tip of Anglesey. 5b (can feel harder when greasy). Up this then the corner/groove above until moves left gain a belay ledge tucked in below a steep arete. Apr 25, 2025 · In the 1990 Gogarth Guidebook, The Bells, The Bells! was described as "an undeniably worrying pitch, with extremely sparse and uninspiring protection", while in the UKC Logbooks, Mike Owen - who made the third ascent - said "a foothold crumbled near the top and I was looking at a ground fall, I thought I was going to die. The exposure creeps up the moment you embark on the steep, grassy scramble to the tidal ledges Gogarth is a premier sea-cliff climbing destination in North Wales. On the west coast of Anglesey lies the tiny Holy Island, home to the imposing and atmospheric sea cliff Gogarth. This includes everything from long multi-pitch routes and bouldering in the mountains of Snowdonia; sport climbing in old quarries, to sea cliff climbing in Pembroke and Gogarth. Even though the development of this cliff started only in the 1960's, its role as a bastion of British trad climbing is undeniable. 1) 6a, 38m. uvlxmjczdolqzitdfcydsxbnieomqxermdrxyjujpmgvqgkthsi