Reddit climbing grip strength. My 2 yr old loves it.

Reddit climbing grip strength. Mar 25, 2022 · In climbing, gravity provides a training resistance that’s limited to your weight. 8. Are finger rolls actually training finger tendon strength or just grip strength? I’m not an expert and I’m not trying to be a dick but that exercise looks more like it trains forearm strength than it would finger strength for climbing specific movement (holding onto smaller edges for longer). Has anyone felt like the grip trainers are fun but don't carry over to real world grip strength? Nearly all grip training can cross over to other areas , but of course to get stronger on dyno’s you need to practice with your particular dyno and train that motion to obtain the best score possible. Long story short, grip strength will not come quickly, it's built over time, and even further climbing grip strength specifically is all over the place, the best way to train it is on the wall. Jan 1, 2025 · To increase grip strength for rock climbing, focus on exercises like hangboard training and wrist curls. Just go climb a lot, focus on improving your technique. A lot of the strength and endurance required for climbing is unique to climbing and difficult to get from other sports. That is, low rep, high intensity with progressive overload, eg 5x5 pullups with weights etc. Any colored belts that are also climbers here? And if so, what advantages have you been able to exploit because of your climbing strength? I know that technique beats strength, but I’m just curious… I think perhaps I have a fairly strong sporting / weightlifting background prior to climbing, so I had a great baseline of strength/flexibility/tension (+ even pinch grip) coming in - and have overcompensated using these at the expense of developing finger strength. As to whether the gripper exercisers increase your grip strength, I think it depends on specificity, if you need a specific type of grip strength you would be better off with an exercise that matches the specific demands of your sport or job. Good tip, thanks. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Around about your grade I reached an impasse where finger strength was the limiting factor, I started hangboarding and it made a massive difference to me. It's not to say just climbing won't improve your finger strength, steep crimpy board style climbing in particular will certainly give you strong fingers, however it's hard to maintain the correct progressive stimulus for continued finger Rope climbing, using a towel or a gi (if ur a martial arts boi) to do pulling exercises, fat grips (a silicone attachment for bars to make it thicker), farmer walks/carries, wrist flexion exercises, crushing grip exercises (COC hand grippers are great), pinching strength exercises (plate pinches or you can make ur own pinch grip attachment outta wood: look on youtube), deadhangs/active hangs 128 votes, 41 comments. My 2 yr old loves it. Now start leaning back and try to file you weight . This involves a hard session of fingerboard and campus board and pinch grip exercises done in a sort of superset rotation. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Strength-to-Weight Formula Finger Strength (lb) / Body Weight (lb). Grip training when you've only been climbing for a week is like putting race tires on a VW bus. Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. They started impinging on my nerves and making it impossible to grip things. Keep in mind, they won’t replace a real climbing training, but they are certainly better than not working on grip strength at all. That's with just climbing, no other weight training etc that would obviously skew things. Gonna make a table of contents so we don't have to scroll through this whole page. It depends on your discipline (sport/bouldering) and what your climbing projects are, but generally I'd make the time to train the open hand on the hangboard. Not only will you not be able to adhere to a 1000 calorie per day diet, but you will also quickly lose muscle and strength as your body will go into starvation mode and begin consuming its own muscle. So just have fun and get up as many routes/boulders as you can. Hello r/climbharder, I'm a complete newcomer to grip training and have started a hangboarding routine for climbing with excellent gains in strength on small edges and incut crimps. I've seen Eric Horst and Geek Climber actually train pinch strength with pinch blocks, which is a targeted and efficient way to expose yourself to frequent load and thus improve. While reading this sub and other sources I realize that most climbers/boulderers mostly train for strength. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip I've climbed for about two years and I play piano as well. Any tips are great. The flexor digitorum superficialis inserts into the middle phalanges, while the flexor digitorum profundus inserts in the distal phalanges. Grip strength, like any strength, requires highly specific training. That big ass helps in lifting, but hurts in climbing. Mind you, I can mix grip the same weight perfectly for 5 reps. As opposed to endurance or hypertrophy. com r/GripTraining: /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Unlike an axle bar, it can even be used with dumbbells. . Jul 8, 2024 · Grip strength for climbing is one of the most important skills we should develop, as bouldering depends greatly on it. Allthough they are still fun to dabble with for me. I recently started finger rolls as a rehab exercise and specifically started more isolated forearm exercises like wrist curls in order to address some weakness in open hand strength on slopers and compression climbing. It mimics using a fat bar/axle while being cheaper and portable. Incorporate various grip types, such as open hand, crimp, and pinch, to target different muscles. So I decided to start training properly. Unless that’s what you mean by “support your own body weight” Reply reply TheBigSchmoJoe • It's possibly a grip duel device, kinda like arm-wrestling, but for grip strength. Why this protocol? Because it’s very time-effective and backed by science to maximize finger strength. Space 1/2 holes every8 inches then stagger next holes down 8 inch and 8 inches starting at the 4 inch mark. Piano playing doesn't seem to affect my climbing whatsoever, I can play after a climbing session and it's no big deal. I typically use a hang gripper for thumb strength (pinches) and for warm up. The muscular strength and tendon strength will develop in due time, focus on the things you can control right now and improve those. I was wondering if anyone has figure out a way to increase grip strength for things like rock climbing when they have hypermobility in their hands/fingers? Train on climbing days so you can rest your hands at least one day after. The home of Climbing on reddit. Here’s how you improve it. Overhead Press session The climber easily. 3/4 inch plywood with one side sanded. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Does anyone have experience with grippers (such as Captains of Crush, heavy grips) to increase strength? How well did it work for you? You’re probably putting too much stock in the grip strength thing and ending up hyper focusing on over gripping the hand causing you to maybe not utilize your feet / body position/ angle on the hold the best way. If you learn correct technique right 14 votes, 14 comments. If you can't get to the climbing wall/crag often enough, you could do some hangboarding, but only if access to climbing is what limits the amount of training you can do. It's one group in a (likely) 3-4 grip routine, so it doesn't take that much extra time. I’m a 7b climber, mostly rope climb at indoor climbing gyms. You have plenty of finger strength to hoist your entire body up at 10s, haha, I don't think it's a finger strength problem, although more finger strength can help you get away with more climbing mistakes. F. However, the training hasn't translated into wide pinches and hideously sloping holds. You can do all those without any speciality equipment! If your ok spending a few bucks, you can buy special grip training cable attachments or pulleys. You want to spend every ounce of your training capacity climbing, which will improve your grip strength, but also your movement vocabulary and general technique. As long as you have a solid base of climbing experience (climbers just starting out Jun 3, 2025 · Incorporating grip strength into a training program depends on your level and training goals. Any advice from climbers with a similar story? /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. TLDR: Years of lifting and climbing with no stretching gave me super tight back muscles. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. A place for posting and discussing Grip Strength, including but not limited to feats of grip strength, grip or arm lifting competitions, technique critiques and hints and tips. As much as people hate to hear it, when it comes to grip strength in the early years of climbing, climbing is the best training for climbing. I expect the false grip to be the gold standard for sloper strength soon with the wrist wrench/arm wrestling protocols as a stepping stone. /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. That being said, I did recently start playing bass and I've had to be significantly more careful because it can be hard on your wrist, same with guitar. Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. I feel like my technique has improved a lot, but I always end up bailing due to grip fatique -- my forearms eventually just give out. Found out today my grip strength is extremely weak, should i look into this further? So today i had one of those pre-employment medicals, part of it was the physio testing various things, range of movement etc. If I get to this point it means my grip strength is giving up before the rest of my body did, which means I've been overgripping, and I try to make it a point to focus on using less grip strength during my next session. While a few weeks is not long enough to guage it's usefulness personally, I've noticed some more confidence in grip strength. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. Though judging from some responses, people don't seem to like the idea of using grip strength for anything but climbing Grip endurance training. Increasing strength there will make deep holds easier to grip in a relaxed fashion. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Finger strength in climbing is often less about grip strength and more about how much force your pulleys and tendons can handle. Dedicated to increasing all our… In climbing you are more working on grip endurance and holding specific hand positions; you're not looking to strengthen your ability to hold onto something wrist sized There have been a half dozen climbing specific studies that indicate grip trainer strength does not correlate to hangboard strength or to on-the-wall performance. The crimp, depending on how exactly you do it mainly uses your Flexor Digitorum Profundus. The more knowledge and experience you have, the more you can adjust your training to your needs and the better your transfer. I’m all on board the strength train when it comes to slopers: four and three fingers open hand, plus wrist, shoulder, chest, and upper back/lat strength. However, ring work in addition to training open hand on a hang board can do the same thing if you don't have access to a gym that sets slopers well. Grip trainers don't come even remotely close to the sort of hand positions you use when climbing. Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. I use them to just keep my crushing grip strength equivilant to my climbing strength. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Not that dynamic exercise won't train your hands -- I'm sure people who train their hands captain-of-crush style are going to fare better than someone who doesn't train their grip at all, but climbing-specific grip strength (hangboard with weight) exercises will lead to more climbing specific strength. Questions for climbers/coaches: Generally, what do you think? The drop in max strength might be because that way of testing finger strength is unusual for you now - f. ex shoulder stability or just technique under the fingerboard. For any moves where hand strength is the limiting factor, excess muscle in any other body part is detrimental. Will rock climbing instead of gym grip exercises produce similar results for general gripping strength and endurance? There is *some* overlap between grip training and finger training (climbing-specific) but, if you're looking to improve your ability to pull down on small holds, spring loaded grip training tools are likely a waste of your time/capacity to recover. After climbing for around 3 weeks I can barely pull 100lbs. You can do Plate pinches, bar hangs, deadlifts where you hold for 10 seconds at the top, and reverse bicep curls. Utilize grip strength tools like grip trainers or tennis balls for specific conditioning. How do i improve my grip strength? So i wanted to improve my grip strength for a while and i finally got some adjustable grip trainers from MP and my final goal is to hang from one of the panels over my door. It should take about 15 minutes on an relatively easy wall, you should only make it 75% of the way up, and you should be completely pumped after (so do it last in a session). superficialis flexes the wrist and first joint of fingers. Of course holding a tough crimp requires a lot of forearm activation but more likely you are more limited by what your fingers can support. Thanks for your answers! In climbing, however, you need excess strength primarily in your forearms, as hand strength is often the weakest link. Lever work would utilize things like Indian clubs and extending is literally just grabbing some rubber bands around your fingers and pushing against them to extend your hand. All of those things felt like they really kickstarted my grip strength more than grippers. Your view around weight loss for climbing are not based in reality and insanely unhealthy. The single biggest obstacle to my progression onto harder climbs has been grip endurance. The goal is to work on grip strength as well as find body and foot positions that minimize hand effort. Recovery time is critical for strength and injury prevention. Your fingers and general grip strength are the smallest (but among the most important) muscles you use when climbing. Im a little disappointed with my actual grip strength after today's battle ropes workout. It takes 2 or 3 months of climbing before your ligaments start to strengthen at all. If you could only do one exercise for grip, fat bar work will give the best bang for the buck. "The difference in insertion points (between D and E) seems to be key. These adapters can turn any exercise into a grip exercise. Tested it on month 0, 1, 3, 7 and 12 in my first year of climbing and it steadily went up with each test. I have that one. Developing a higher level of climbing strength and power requires that you increase gravity’s apparent pull. Hand grippers do not build tendon strength or neurological at all. Do you think that you'd have a better chance of replicating this climb if you had his strength and grip, or his understanding of how to climb? The knowledge without the strength makes it impossible. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. This means that the the f. You just can't hit the same amount of weight with a crush that you can hit with a static hold. I'm kind of disappointed that my climbing grip strength didn't translate to deadlift. Grippers are not the best way to directly increase grip strength for the deadlift. A hang board allows for a well structured workout, practical climbing grips, and allow for more weight. I have very strong upper body strength, but my hands/fingers have very weak grip strength because my fingers are so loose & flexible. It said that knuckle popping isn't related to arthritis, but is linked to hands swelling and reduced grip strength. I use both, but as for finger strength, all my gains have been from hang board sessions. People don't realise how much climbing is about grip, basically for relative strength climbers > everyone else and for absolute strength grip specialists > everyone else. Add in gripper training if you can ? What’s you full routine currently. And you never know when you actually will use that grip, so it doesn't hurt to train it. I like the idea of hypertrophy training using whatever you want, but the published data indicates that gripper training is at best tangentially beneficial to climbing. Honestly, the grip strength that is practised in this sub is a little different from what you use in rock climbing in general. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Regardless, yeah just keep climbing. Obviously, early on you want to take it easy because you haven't built up the foundation strength, but even pros hurt tendons. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. 174K subscribers in the climbharder community. Going double overhand on deadlifts, using thickbars/fatgrips, pinching and curling plates. My hand training is pretty one-dimensional to say the least, and merely consists of repeaters on 15mm edges. I realize that The problem with just climbing routes is that you don't usually expose yourself to enough pinches, so pinch strength won't drastically improve if you don't pinch enough. Its less about grip strength and more about tendon strength which develops incredibly slow and tendons also heal slow if you injure them, your priority as a beginner should be developing good footwork and body positioning. If you really want to see progress on the fingerboard, maybe some weeks of light training with it will make you able to hang with more weight. It utilizes all: fingers, thumb, and even some wrist strength. Any tips or little things you could make/buy as a tool to increase this? I've thought about using some old 2x4's to hang weights from so I can use it around the house when not at the gym. This all keeps the muscles balanced which reduces chance for injury. I Boulder V2 and climb 5. d. Note, my crush strength with heavy grips is around 225lbs each hand, so a total of 450lb yet I still fail at 300lb deadlifts. The Solution: Train finger strength by hangboarding. See full list on sendedition. Just keep climbing! Even if your issue is physical strength more mileage would be my answer. You can't just train your "forearms" because they contain many different muscles. My grip strength was sad when I first started, and it has improved significantly, but so has my technique. This is the single most important aspect for a beginning climber. For beginners and those in their second season, bouldering is a great way to build grip strength. While the pinch uses your thumb muscles, it uses a different finger muscle, the Lumbricals. Meh I disagree, grip strength and crimp strength can definitely be a limiting factor and I don’t think you can really develop that without climbing. The flipside of "just climbing" is to "vary your training", which exposes you to different movements (climbing) or methods (training). Questions. Any recommendations for wrist, grip, and finger exercises to get a better hold? Specifically exercises I can do on days off from climbing, with little to no equipment (unless there’s something so awesome that you can’t not recommend it) (Also I can’t put a hang board in my apartment) Thanks y’all! Does the GRIPMASTER pro hands tool work well in developing finger strength or is it more of a gimmick and could possibly injure my fingers. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I was a rock climbing for 5 years and while my grip was better than average, I wasn’t spectacular at holding onto deadlifts. Bought the 25 climbing holds off amazon with hardware for like 35$. 9s. It's totally possible to do both at a high level but you Reddit's rock climbing training community. It also sounds like you need some rest days. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip The Problem: There are static moves you can’t do because you can’t grip the holds. There’s a lot of technique in sloper climbing, but those same positions are often murder on your shoulders, so it helps to have good movement/mobility and strength in very wide positions. Im looking into getting into bouldering, I have zero experience so im not really sure where to start. Personally it makes sense,I've always popped and my grip strength when I started climbing was pathetic and is still a weakness. If they exist, what is typical for say grades V6 -V11/12? I have a hand dynamometer at home and before I started climbing, my grip strength was around 120-130lbs. Routines Basic Routine Mass Building Increase Deadlift Grip Bodyweight and Calisthenics Rock Climbing (Hangboard) Grappling Martial Arts Grippers Arm Wrestling Cheap and Free Grip Training I just want something to do at my desk - (this post is in the other thread) Other Wiki Topics How to get started Grip on a We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. If you can't do some move because of your body type, it means you need to figure out new beta, not get a different body. I'll be climbing on jugs and my fingers start to feel completely like jelly and I can't grip the holds at all. Hard crimp boulders often require pushing down with one hand while pulling with another, or wide outside the shoulder strength, or messed up inside the shoulder crosses. What other exercises can i do to improve my grip strength?' Archived post. Grip strength training, at the very most isolated kind (think squeezers) will provide you with improved tendon strength throughout your hands and wrists which will serve to protect against injury and the ability to grab your opponents even without a full hand grip will increase. But it transfers well. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Grip strength helps feel safe and go longer, biceps strength at full extension helps on overhangs, but core strength (being able to keep tension throughout your body as you climb) constantly comes up as the #1 thing you will always use. What I'm wondering is, at what point will my grip strength return, let alone increase? Do I just need to take a hiatus from climbing until my grip strength goes back up? I find that it's becoming difficult to keep finishing the 166 votes, 16 comments. Of all the physical components that contribute to your climbing ability, none is more important than grip strength. If you plan to hang at the end of a climbing session, make sure you save enough energy to train hard. The moment you start making excuses for your climbing ability because of your body type is the same moment you stop climbing hard. Got it to track my general grip strength over time to satisfy my curiosity. With that information in mind, when do you think I should train pinches or shouldn't I train them at all? It doesn't seem like a good idea to train grip strength on the days I don't climb, but the training quality would probably not be that good after 3 hours of climbing, either. Gave it a cool paint job. Oct 18, 2024 · Learn why strength training is great for climbers, with a complete 14-week training program to improve your climbing performance. Relatively new-ish climber here, and while I agree that technique is a very important part that will allow you to climb harder routes without “muscling” your way through, I’ll also say that yes, grip strength is important. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. My fingers were strong as fuck though. And yes we are scared of falling. The False Grip for rings skills in gymnastics trains the same muscles but in a way that's more transferable to climbing IMO. You can still build grip strength without a hangboard. These are relatively small, light muscles. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. However, I'd say your statement is rather true in the reverse way: If you want insane grip, you need to train specifically that. I started no-gi jiu jitsu a few months ago and grip strength seems to be in my favor. Hello there, I started climbing about 10 months ago, got addicted and I feel like reached my first plateau. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. You can create this with hypergravity training by adding weight to your body as you engage in a climbing-specific exercise. 5M subscribers in the SweatyPalms community. Reply reply albrizz • Rick climbing is a great way to build grip strength as well, couple months of climbing and you'll be crushing rocks into sand Reply reply Yes grip trainers can improve your grip strength even when working a desk based job. Confusing but once you see it it makes sense. My grip fails on certain holds. Try to find someone to coach you a bit, give you technique advice and critique your technique while climbing. Hangboards don't need 10 different pocket combinations to work. = STW (Strength-to-Weight ratio) What grade can they climb? As we previously found in past Grippul Challenges, Most climbers who are bouldering double digits between V10-V14 were able to pull 100%-130% of their body weight on the 15 degree crimp. d Because sloper strength is so complex- compared to crimp strength at least- I personally just like climbing a lot of sloper climbs to improve. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip videos/articles, etc. You have to train specific grips--pinch grip, crimp, open crimp, etc. Working on making my pinch grip stronger. Bottomline is, even if grip strength is as important as you're making it out to be, what evidence do you have that hangboarding is more effective at building finger strength than simply climbing? Open a door , stand in front of the latch side , approx 50cm (or more if you feel comfortable) bend your legs and pinch 🤏 grip the door. Do 4-6 reps Do this on different terrain/angle/route as the grip strength day, just for the variety of stimulus and accumulating volume at different angles for skill acquisition I like to superset this with external shoulder rotations, lateral raises, or some other shoulder strengthening work that doesn't come from climbing. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Stronger fingers mean you can use smaller holds—and holds that felt unhangable before will feel more manageable. That often means they can be the slowest to adapt and strengthen, also the most prone to injury if you climb hard and often. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. Check it out! My advice is: please don't. This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. Pinch strength and crimp strength are somewhat related but mainly use different muscles to achieve the goal of holding on to the hold and not falling off. Useful in… Feb 17, 2023 · I train climbing grip strength one day a week only. 1. I'm Anyone in the thread have any recommendations for workouts that impact the hand grip strength the most? I have one of those hand grip tools that you push down on, but im not sure that its actually good. Climbing multiple times a week does wonders for finger strength if you focus on working problems that require a lot of finger strength. Aside from that, a very cheap option is to buy a 3/4 in strip of wood, and nail/screw it onto another piece of wood (Porch rafter, over a door way, under the stairs, etc). A better option would be something like: Do the current grip training exercises you perform put increased stress on your shoulders? Grip strength and technique, and some research on how to optimize your training routine to focus on climbing-specific strengths. 120 votes, 28 comments. We have a similar device at our gym, it's very fun way to get a pulley injury /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Videos (and images) that make your palms sweat. Jun 6, 2025 · This guide breaks down the 4 types of grip strength, explains why it matters for both lifters and climbers, and gives you science-backed workouts to build a vice-like grip that performs when it counts. Reddit's rock climbing training community. you should also include finger extensor exercises. Which will make you better at rock climbing. Does having a good grip strength help? Would you want to be able to improve your grip strength without doing exercises that further stress your shoulders? Is anyone going to answer "no" to that? As a general rule, a good question isn't leading. I just saw the item I describe in my bouldering gym, so I thought the climbing reddit might be an appropriate place to ask. They are shaped like wedges or cones and are great for grip training also Climbing is infinitely better in my opinion, as someone that owns a full set of CoC grippers and was really into grip training before armwrestling, grippers would be near the bottom of my exercises I’d do to get better at armwrestling, the only reason I occasionally train them anymore is for fun. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Fingers of steel are the foundation of harder climbing. Watch some technique videos! Indoor boulderer here. Been gym climbing for about 8 months, I'm only working up to 5. Finger strength training is not recommended without climbing 2x or more a week for a year due to the historical use of hangboards at body weight load. In support of this, people here distinguish heavily between climbing grip strength and grip sport strength, usually on the idea of isometric/concentric non-transference. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. 2. jlotof brqmn funh yje nijoapkm vtppu fxj ueftxb zkh yntvzv