Offset nuts climbing reddit. Alpha Trad draws, Oz on my cams.

Offset nuts climbing reddit. I consider offset cams a specialty piece and rarely carry them. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. 1. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. 5, 0. 10 trad climbing as well as alpine stuff. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all-season May 17, 2024 · What you really need to know, and buy, to start trad climbing. I’ve been told to avoid hexes, but if you feel strongly, I’d love to hear why. Is this correct? Sep 24, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I'd recommend saving your money as the use will be limited. Generally when a guidebook says "a single rack" that is what they mean. DMM Offset nuts) to supplement what you currently have, but they aren't necessary. Instructing, Coaching, Guiding and Approved Mountain Training Course Provider. As both #11 nuts in both brands are about the same size. Double offset nuts 7–11. Reply reply PulpFiction849 • Feb 2, 2024 · Our Runner Ups for the Best Climbing Nuts for Trad Climbing While these nuts didn’t quite make the cut into the favorite’s position, they are still recommended by many trad climbers as well as having positive reviews from many experts. I carry offset nuts far more Offsets seemed to be easier to place for me. I always rack at least two. The fixed stem cams probably solid but require better attention to use. Add a set of offset nuts, a green and a yellow cam and you've got the rack I started out with. So I'm building a 10'X10' (3m X 3m) bouldering wall in my home and I've seen a few different patterns for placing the tee nuts in the wall, one site suggested holes every 6" (15cm) horizontally with 3" (7. Feb 29, 2024 · What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. Building your first trad rack made simple and easy. Good nut for columnar basalt? I have been looking into buying a set of nuts to use as supplimental protection on sport routes which tend to be quite run out (depending on grade) where I am. I use them way more often than regular nuts. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than Reddit's rock climbing training community. 75-2 all the time. Nut-wise, I get more placements out of my offsets than my regular large nuts, but I know it depends on the area. It depends on where you live. com Open Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A andrew314159 • . I built a master list of climbing skills for teaching friends, from single pitch sport climbing, to leading ski trips in complex avalanche terrain and first aid. 7). Wich is the best cheap online sites (I can have it picked up in US). Jan 5, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. While they are high-grade nuts and have many positive features, they don’t quite measure up to the DMM Wallnut and Offset. For example, in some places offset nuts and tricams are invaluable, and other places they're specialty pieces. HB Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. I've been using a one hand hangboard and a Lattice weight pin owned by the gym I climb at. 5cm) between each row vertically and another suggested holes in an 8" by 8" (20cm by 20cm) grid. They can be more difficult to clean though. Thank you greggrylls and Edek for answering my question sincerely. I was told by my one trad climbing friend that the ball nuts and hex’s are super specialty and that I should just get the offset nuts because there’s nothing an offset can do that a regular stopper can’t but there’s plenty of placements a regular stopper won’t work in that an offset would There are plenty of great placements for normal nuts on all the routes I climb. This 2 sets Ball Nuts #1 blue and #2 red (My favorite piece of gear, since you asked) 1-2 Complete sets of Brass Offset Stoppers 2 Complete sets of Offset Wild Country Superlight Rocks 16 Matching DMM Alpha Sport Draws or Petzl Spirit or The Edelrid Bulletproof in 17cm or longer length 16 Matching Camp Nano 22 or Petzl ange S Alpine Draws. Are they really that good? Is this obsession just my immediate environment or is it because offset nuts are really that great? Depends where you'll be climbing. I called it "lucky one" as it usually fits nearly every DMM wallnut, size 3. 454 votes, 105 comments. Once you've got a double set down it's time to start investing in offsets, micros and offset micros. 50 versus Cotswold's £155. Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. But if you’re new to trad climbing, how do you make sure that you’re getting the best climbing nuts? With climbing experience, you build your own personal preference. But I don’t want to carry two racks of nuts, so I choose offset. Should I be spending on a . Your first set of nuts should be versatile in the area you'll be climbing. 5-3 right front. Im not sure where you are climbing that you need so many cams starting out, but a beginner surely just needs some nuts, hexes, and offsets (in addition to the quickdraws, nut key, etc) to get through all the beginner stuff. Draws, alpine draws, runners and double runners split left and right side in that order. Anchor lockers, belay and bail gear behind that and/or on the haul loop as needed. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. The photo was to demonstrate why I climb with offsets instead of traditional nuts. Other places like the Utah desert almost have no nut placements because the cracks tend to be perfectly parallel. 4 and 3. I climb mostly in Utah in rock canyon and Ibex with the occasional moab trip. The main complaint with those seem to So $800 added onto your sport gear of draws, belay device, harness, shoes, chalkbag. I use them all the time now on free climbs anywhere that isn't perfectly parallel cracks they seem to fit. Plus long runners to extend gear. Farther north, where the major geologic process is Feb 6, 2018 · Whether or not to get offset nuts largely depends on where you climb. After about 1 year with this you'd probably want to add Backcountry $730 camalot package . Their offset shape fits better in flaring valley crack. The same one which kept me off the ground as a single piece of protection 20+ feet above the ground. Good luck! Get out to Seneca and Old Rag too, they are I've personally found that normal nuts usually kinda fit in offset placements, but offsets fit terribly in non offset placements. Good price point, reliable, and all your future partners will be familiar with them. Maybe its just the rock I climb on (granite in washington). I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. The feeling you get when an offset sits perfectly- it's so satisfying. Worth noting that several specialist climbing shops offer the pack for cheaper than Cotswold. I respect that dmm offsets are probably better but a literal machine nut on string will make bomber gear on solid California granite in exfoliation regions where you get a lot of segmented cracks with good tapers too them. Should I slim down the rack for these routes? Should I be worried about not having any 5s or 6s? Am I gonna die if I don't have four #1s ;) Thanks to the community for any feedback! Offset nuts just help you find those nut placements were you go "oh my lord I can't believe I can get gear here". Would eventually like to try some climbs at Bon Echo as well. I've read lots of posts of people raving about the Alloy Offsets, but very little user information about Superlight Offset Rocks. Keeps the design sleek, would recommend DMM offset nuts, or micro brassies for style points Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome [1]. Would I be better served by doubling up my C4's or buying a set of Master Cam's for climbing in the Valley? 4: Gear, Ive got doubles between 0. These will give you a good range of sizes. But I found a deal on backcountry for Wild Country nuts 1-8 for $35 and 6-10 for $50, a total of $85 for 1-10 plus extras of the 6, 7, and 8. com. Has anyone tried both the DMM Alloy Offsets and the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks? I'm wondering how they compare. Every beginner rack needs some things--giant hexes, ancient ball nuts, stupidly small offset micro-stoppers, mega big bros--that you'll never use but will give us an opportunity to make snarky comments. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango The order of preference on thin gear is some small nuts (and offset nuts), and then small cams, and then ball nuts. also you need moar. Apr 24, 2023 · Double cams from 00 to No. That's off-fingers to hand. Apr 11, 2018 · Black Diamond’s Offset Stoppers Weighing only 8. BD stoppers and ABC huevos are pretty similar in shape. Enough Hexes that the local rancher thinks his herd escaped. Ive been climbing a couple of years, mostly sport and bouldering, but sometimes trad with buddies. These are not their famous offset nuts. Buying used gear can be a great way to save money. What do you guys think? Fair assessment on it being shallower than ideal, but it’s what the rock gave me. Aggressive Nuts Buying Guide Double Cap Read Time - 9 minutes May 2020 Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. I’ve currently got a single set of DMM Wallnuts and a single set of BD C4s. We have been climbing for a while, guiding professionally Those offset nuts are very handy. Glossary Downturned - the general shape of the shoe, and more specifically the angle of the toe and foot posture. The DMMs 1-11 are $110. They work fantastically well with climbing in Leavenworth :) buying a whole rack of offsets is pretty ludicrous for free climbing. After that trip I bought a set of DMM Offset nuts and when I returned for some more climbing it was magical. You are very lucky to walk away uninjured I took a 40ft once when my bad microcam placement failed and ended up 15ft off the deck saved by a #7 offset nut. Two reasons. Skip the BD stoppers, also ‘meh’. This is a brief attempt to wrangle all of our "OMG what climbing shoe" posts in one general direction. TL;DR: niche piece & couldn't Totems to black (bd 0. I want to get some gear so I have something to contribute, as well as open up my horizons to more routes other than sport. For nuts and other climbing hardware, check out the deals at GearSnag. 8 oz, the full set of Black Diamond’s new Offset Stoppers (#7–11) has mad bang for the buck, with each piece offering four tapered, vari-sized, trapezoidal facets. 4, plus offsets. The groove down the centre of the DMM nuts can be placed around irregularities in the placement which will help hold it in place. the WC dont seem to fit very often, and at least in pictures the trango or BD look closer to the DMM. I asked about falls, placements, and how it was stored. Is this true in NC? 160 votes, 41 comments. The gear was already getting harder to place at this point, the nut passed a few tugs and looked decent, so again, I moved on and kept climbing. Some offset nuts maybe? I use mine loads but I’m climbing a bit harder than you. Thoughts?? The best shape of nut to use depends on where you climb, you style of climbing and just personal preference so I wouldn't take too much advice blindly from the internet. For me, a basic rack is a set of nuts and cams . i personally have the DMM offsets and the wildcountry offset rocks. Double cams are nice to have but really depends on where you're climbing. trueEDIT: Some interesting info During the recall claim procedure, you need to select which Superlight Rocks you are sending in, and which nuts you would like as a replacement. Secondly: If for example BD stoppers are being placed everywhere, over time, the placements will have been prepped and worn to So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. Always seems to go in on the most engaging fun pitches. Right now my partner and I have doubles from . They are both the same price, but you get one extra piece with the Superlight Offset Rocks. Got me up quite alot of things. Double nuts from 1–13. 2/0. Qualified, experienced and psyched climbing and mountaineering instructor based in Snowdonia, N Wales. Also a set of offset nuts including RPs (DMM brass nuts). If you're looking for being able to use a wide variety of sizes these are the ones you want (especially if price isn't an issue). I really like my WC Zero's for 0. awesome thank you, any advice for removing the corrosion? Recomend staying away from the WD40 to prevent cross contamination of your soft gear. If you’re climbing 5. 1 cam next? brassies? offset nuts? Ball nuts? If I do go with the . I'd also get a set of offset. Also you’re gonna want way more alpine draws if you’re doing multi pitch, especially if routes wander. Of everything. Totally agreed! I mainly climb on gritstone and I find that I place tons of cams but whenever I go to the Lake District or North Wales it’s offset nuts all the way. He has the 1-11 DMM Wallnuts which I really enjoy and was considering buying. Different brands have slightly different characteristics but theyre all just lumps of metal on wire. As sorta mentioned nuts and stoppers are the same thing. The black totem cam, pink tricam and blue offset nut have a sort of cult following amongst trad climbers, E1 is just a British trad grade :) Reply reply More repliesMore repliesMore replies I initially got Metolius offsets for aid climbing in the valley, but started bringing them on free climbs. it's dangerous. The normal Rocks in equivalent size/colour (available now) Note, if you own the Bought offsets cams for the gunks, sold those offsets to someone who doesn't climb at the gunks. 6. Apr 11, 2012 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Reply reply I often see gear placements rip out in YouTube videos of people falling. DMM offsets are popular, though I prefer a the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks paired with the Superlight half nuts (non-offset) sets. And yes we are scared of falling. That little gold wire held my first fall, and ever since, brings on good feelings on a lead. Buy the DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts online or shop all Climb from Backcountry. I would appreciate hearing personal experiences and Jul 24, 2025 · They're an essential part of any climber's trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There's many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you're going to buy. Looking for some advice for the local trad rack for Ontario limestone single pitch climbing. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. when I'm not climbing that style, like if I'm on aeolian granite or breccia I'm largely loving cams Echo everyone else. redundant because its a nut and a quickdraw (attached to the nut). I’ve never been climbing in Cornwall so I don’t know exactly what it’s like there but I do loads of trad in Scotland and a bit in Wales. (and yeah, they are slightly harder to place correctly). The On slightly flared placements nothing fits like DMM Alloy Offset nuts. Weighing out your comfort level to how much actual weight you want to carry. My biggest takeaway was that I should have been placing more gear, and didn't because I let me ego and over confidence get in the way. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Jun 29, 2021 · A description of the key items you need to start building your own rack for traditional or lead rock climbing, including karabiners, nuts, hex’s, cams and tips on how to use them. But for micronuts you probably don't want, or can't use, a cam, and a finicky offset micronut isn't confidence inspiring. Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you a long time. Is it worth picking up a second set of nuts, either DMM offsets, BD or others. Pick a few as back up for your Wallnuts and prepare to be converted. FYI DMM offset nuts are 20% off on backcountrgear. Starter rack is complete! Any tips for a new trad climber? Would love to hear all sorts of experiences and advice! Because they theoretically are rated for higher loads than many other cams of the same sizes and everyone has loved they are offset nuts. Start Jun 11, 2012 · I grew up trad climbing in Australia in the 90s where bolts were something only occasionally seen as a rap anchor and the standard rack looked like this: 2-3 sets of nuts 1 Full set of slung hexes up to #9 or #10 3-6 cams Lots of knotted slings and loose biners I recall only once or twice seeing 24 votes, 10 comments. Even now, after several updates and a lot more fierce competition, they remain one of the very best nuts for the For your first set of nuts , you should buy whatever is the most popular with experienced climbers at your local crag. You get to double up on the middle sizes, they’re not as aggressively offset so they still work well in normal placements, and they’re significantly lighter. Wild Country Rockcentrics are an excellent choice. I'm a sport climber, but a couple of my climbing buddies will only do trad. Get the big ones and the tiny ones (like DMM peenuts, e. Most people start with a 1-11 set from a major manufacturer (DMM, BD, WC) then add another 1-8 set from another manufacturer. I'd recommend some Offset nuts (e. For free climbing I have a set of bd micro nuts (the original non offset ones) and a partial set of metolius astro nuts. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. 5 and 5. I don't recall the Jul 24, 2025 · Before your trad rack is complete however, consider adding a least one set of stoppers, also called nuts, for your passive protection. Just regular nuts. Reddit's rock climbing training community. climbing. What do i need incams, nuts, carabines, slings and so on. Very overwhelmed on where to start. When climbing multi pitch routes, you’re definitely going to want a larger selection of widgets. Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. Personally, the DMM offset nuts go up with me on every pitch. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 33 votes, 18 comments. Offset nuts are nice but you can get by quite well without them in most places (I still don't own a set). The home of Climbing on reddit. 1 but DMM Dragonflies would be a good alternative. If it helps I carry a set of DMM Wallnuts (similar to you bd stoppers) and a set of DMM alloy offsets and plan to add a set of peanuts to this. 4. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. While I've never used ball nuts myself, they may be worthwhile to use in place of your smallest nuts on routes that are tiny runout cracks as they provide a bit more protection (7kN compared to 2kN for 3. I do use offset nuts though and they've saved me a few times but aren't required. From there it's going to depends on what and where you are climbing. This gets you a "minimal single rack". " includes gear to build an anchor and gear to attach oneself to a (bolted) anchor to set up a rappel if necessary. I also use them to supplement my rack if a particular route has a LOT of one size and I need extras, or the placements aren't quite perfect. They're a specialized piece of gear, not necessarily suitable for everywhere. These tiny pieces of passive protection revolutionized what is possible with traditionally placed gear when they were first released. Additionally they will match the DMM offsets which everyone also swears by (BD now makes offset nuts, never tried em tho). They sometimes become a favourite piece. Occasionally some runners over the shoulder. 3-3, single 4-6, and metolius 1-4 mastercams, along with two sets of nuts and a set of bd offsets. The "extra slings, carabiners, etc. :P Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Trying to master my gear placement though. There's lots missing, so offer feedback and potential additions in the comments and I'll do my best to curate this post into something we can refer people/the FAQ to. Even climbing on Little Cottonwood Granite with weird flares and pin scars, one of my Metolius cams or an offset cam/nut fit the same or better than an equivalent Totem. I haven't heard people say much praise of ball nuts other than that's the only thing that would fit; they didn't feel great climbing above it, and when fallen on you are gonna have a hard time removing it. Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. Climber Decks. Offset nuts and micro nuts How have you been living with just that old square rack of nuts? Here's a quick rundown on why ball nuts might be better than similarly sized cams from Sierra Mountain Guides: Demystifying the Ball Nut. Someone else cited it in this thread somewhere. DMM offsets are great nuts but there's only 5 of them, so if you buy a set of regular nuts (DMM wallnuts are again awesome, but most brands of nuts are also good to great) you'll have 10 more pieces. I appreciate every placement is different and should be judged on its individual merits. 8mm spans via Trango). Offset nuts I've been reading john long's book on trad anchors and I am pretty surprised how much he shits on offset nuts. Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. 3-#6 $120 offset brass nuts $100 black totem $25. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. Offwidth climbing is the best climbing. g. There are always people selling Why only passive pro? I've climbed with a set of nuts (at this point it's entirely random - i've lost a few and bootied a few), but I have never wanted anything else besides cams. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. 10s, you should probably get a full double rack of . Here’s how it is done. Where do you plan on climbing? This greatly affects your rack. BD #4 comes in handy sometimes for sure. 5-3 on c4's and a set of nuts too, that's a good starter rack. Aug 8, 2022 · With no moving parts (hence, “passive protection”), nuts are inexpensive, lightweight, and sturdy. What unpopular opinions do you have on climbing areas, conventions, disciplines, or culture? One thing to note is that if you have a full set of DMM Wallnuts, you can expand your nut selection by getting Wild Country Rocks sizes 12, 13, and 14. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Nuts, offset nuts, C4 0. I did that and then filled in with master cams and c3's for smaller sizes, and DMM offset nuts. I went to a famous American climbing area for the first time today, and thought the climbing sucked. Even if you take into account a BMC discount at Cotswold, they're about even. Budget about 1000 usd. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. I need some recommendation on what to buy an where to buy. Something like offset or more curved nuts could be useful. I am just back from climbing trip in Dolomites where I placed a red DMM offset which became stuck (according to my partner who couldn't get it out). DMM nuts can also be harder to clean for this reason. However, let's talk about that cam. I could see having a double set of nuts giving you more choices for building multi pitch anchor or bailing of a route. I wish I would have purchased all dmm cams after using those nuts and seeing that dmm factory tour video. Gates IN. For rock Double sets of nuts are useful if they are different shapes. Some places like Yosemite really love offset nuts and smaller cam like a black totem. So my question is, can you climb trad with only nuts and Peenuts and wallnuts. You have two choices: The same Superlight Rocks in the same size, but only available from September 2023. V12outdoor, for example, sell the pack for £139. The best non-offset nuts I've used are the Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts. Climbing in the Adirondacks a lot (where many cracks are flaring), the offsets make protecting the climbs a lot easier. As small as a . The Hugh Banner offsets strongly resemble DMM's HB Alloy Offset Nuts just without the colored anodizing on the heads. Here's what you need to know. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Alpha Trad draws, Oz on my cams. However, I'm a broke high schooler, so I can't really afford cams, and I don't want to get too invested in it. I myself want to add a set of non offset small stoppers to round out my rack. And ive got one #4 and one black alien. From a perspective of WA State climbing, you should be good with what you have at the moment. If you want to blow money, best bang for the buck to feel super secure is to upgrade your nuts, the DMM offset alloys (and brassies in #1-6) would do much better than your BD nuts. 2 through 5 and singles of 0 through #8. Jul 16, 2025 · Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. If you I’ve been trad climbing for a while on my friends rack and am looking to start building my own. Anybody know why DMM and BD offset nuts stop at BD #11 or equivalent? I'd totally be down with a #12 and #13 offset nut. I had the bd's first and they are pretty versatile (twist them if you want a taper) and hold up to use/falls pretty well. Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. 75 (doubles) left front. Also, two 25-foot cordelettes, 12 alpine draws, five slings, six double-length slings, two prusiks, two rap devices in case you drop one, and 20 lockers because who knows? 2. Generally I use standard cams (some combination of C3s, C4s & Mastercams) but use offset cams on certain routes in certain areas like Yosemite, Index & JTree. We used each while ascending wind-blown alpine If the climbing is hard, it's definitely easier to place a cam where you could have placed a regular nut, and an offset can usually go in as well. I want to get a new set of nuts and have really like the DMM Offset nuts but the BD ones look just the same with the benefit of the color coding matching the standard BD ones. Honourable mentions to the smaller blue offset, and the red six. . Also another reason why So here's the situation. Climbing Nuts 101 will help you make that decision when you're getting your first gear for trad climbing. A 70ft whip from one blown piece?! wowzers. For more of our top climbing gear recommendations, check out the Best Climbing Nuts. However I am curious, and also building my own confidence for taking falls. You’ve got a good start though!😊 Reply reply WeirdoClimbing • Weekend Whipper: Two Nuts Rip, a Third Unclips. Aug 31, 2016 · Perhaps the offset nuts are overkill for a beginner rack but it's a decent deal for the package. 2K votes, 171 comments. Pro depends on the route, BD Ultralights, offset nuts, tri-cams, BD screws 10 to 16cm, 1x22cm ultralight for belays and threads. A full set of nuts and offset nuts. I am thinking of buying some trad gear online. Lesson learned. We tested each through a wide range of fissures, scar pins, parallel-sided cracks, around blocks, and the like. What is stopping be from using a nut on a horizontal for at least some pro. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. 12 votes, 48 comments. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. It’s “weather” if you count all of mountaineering, slip-and-falls in rock climbing specifically, and you can’t even count rappelling as “while climbing” because it’s not while climbing. If you want two racks of nuts? Do it. These nuts are crafted with meticulous attention to detail, ensuring a secure fit in irregular cracks and flares. I've recently had a lot of success following a Lattice rehab plan for A2 pulley strain, which largely consisted of a no-hand density "hang" protocol. 2 and sometimes the plastic piece that guides the trigger wires can be troublesome in tight places. 1 is, I wonder about the advice, if I should even bother getting it for free climbing or skip to a ball nut set or passive pro only in the little sizes. Small cams and C4 0. Trad climbing is constant critical thinking and judgement calls. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. What does r/climbing suggest as a hole pattern? Any advice? A place to post bigwall-specific climbing discussions, videos, trip reports, and other obscurity. ” With Description Tenaya Offset Nuts: Precision and Reliability for Every Climb Elevate your climbing experience with Tenaya Offset Nuts, designed for climbers who demand precision and reliability. I'd hop on Mountain Project, a local Facebook climbing group, or pay a visit a local gear shop and ask what a good starter rack is for where you will be climbing the most. com you can also add a 10% off your order by adding "10percent" as a code. offsets are much more a clean aid climbing thing. My question is, if I’ve used all my cams earlier on a climb. Multiple times he says that they are a niche piece of pro with marginal holding power in all but perfect placements. T nut spacing for home walls? I've read that most folks do a 8 inch offset spread that puts 72 t nuts per 4'x8' plywood panel. I What should I look out for or ask? What percentage of the original price should I look to buy gear at? UPDATE: Thank you for the advice! I bought gently used sets of Black Diamond offset nuts and DMM peenuts from somebody who tried trad a couple times last year and decided it wasn't for them. I used them on wonky, seamy granite cracks, and loved how deeply they seated in pinches, flare boxes, and tapers—you can rotate the nut to get just the right “seat. Nov 23, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 5 to 2 or 3. What do people prefer? What's the return on doing a 4 inch grid, etc? Thanks. I used it as my warm up for climbing sessions, and found that my injury cleared up very quickly and my fingers feel healthier than ever. Always bomber and covers the equalization issue by only having one direction of pull. Tricams. Although some people prefer to use hexes instead of the larger size nuts. Petzl Attache 3D with BD ATC Guide Alpine, really light Elderid lockers. 1 cam what model do you recommend? id also get either the trango or BD offset nuts. 18K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Has anyone had a chance to try out the new BD Offset Stoppers? How do they compare to the DMM ones. I am curious whether basalt climbers like offset or standard nuts more for the rock type. A crowd sourced choice will give you a nice averaged answer. I climb in Squamish and cannot say enough good things about the black Totem. And I really love them nuts. Any ball nut tips? It’s the trango number 3 gold one I often buy a single size of pro to test out. Pink tricam This gets you to a full fledged rack and will get you up durn near I purchased some dmm offset nuts and the quality and care into the design and manufacture that goes into them is astounding. Can't go wrong with the classic BD Camelot's. Winners have been wild country rockcentric 3 (yellow), wild country superlight offset 6 (red), and a black diamond micro stopper. ). I find alpine quickdraws really useful. Reply reply Sloppo_Toppo • This is it Reply reply haskie69 • I’d whip on that Reply reply More repliesMore repliesMore replies Mandarkar • Nice grogri Reply reply Gold-Log-2011 • Potentially from space Reply reply r/climbing Outside of offset nuts, diversifying your cams may help. Unless you know it is the perfect piece, just ask how many free climbers actually use a whole rack of these. i place an offset nut 4 times for every regular nut, and feel like i could skip the regular nuts altogether and rarely miss them. 2) and below that blue ballnut and brass offset nuts for granite After about 5 more feet of climbing, I placed a small offset nut. For single pitch trad I usually take: Small nuts, big nuts and offset nuts 6 cams (built in slings) 4 hexes (built in slings) 4 quick draws, 16 and 25cm 4 60cm alpine draws 2 120cm slings 1 240cm sling And various screwgates etc Cams are expensive and Unless you're climbing really short routes, pooling gear with a friend or climbing mixed routes a few cams and a single set of nuts isn't enough to safely protect most climbs. Before you rope up for your first trad lead, you need to know how to place and extend gear. They inspire more confidence than any other small piece but they are slightly bigger than 0. com My immediate group of climbing partners obsess over offset nuts. Based on your experience of falling off trad climbs, how often has a piece popped/ripped? This poll is aimed at people who are regularly falling off. I currently have a set of C4's, nuts, and a few hex's. Not having a whole set of cams will force you to learn to set nuts properly and inventive ways. Edit: Also can't deny I enjoy placing an old machine nut slung on cord, occasionally. offset nuts however are incredible for free climbing. The super light offset especially that thing fits anyway Get some nuts and that will probably carry you into plenty of 5. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. Side tangent: I think rating 1-10 is pointless Gear falls into three categories: body weight only, likely to hold, will hold; Basically, evaluating past, “do I need to back this piece up?” saps mental energy and Arno Ilgner Jan 6, 2020 · The DMM HB Brass Offset (also known as simply DMM Brass Offsets) is the most popular “ brassy ” or micro nut on the market, and with good reason. Is there any gear I should buy like some offset cams or micronuts that would be useful for jtree, or should this rack be plenty? Probably don't need doubles of the 3, but I use doubles of the . kif owzf noulful xczmyr dlhx faw sffd jvavndod kwsy ggqpkns

26th Apr 2024