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Backup belay loop.
Inadequate back up for rappels.
Backup belay loop. 3) Tie a autoblock on the brake strand and clip it to your belay loop. Traction device under your main- extend your backup device on a locking quickdraw under your main device so that if your main fails your backup will catch you. Nov 6, 2018 · If you start on the left of the belay loop, continue passing the rope up parallel to the belay loop and through the left side of the loop on the waist belt, always staying to the left of the belay loop. Yes, I extend my ATC with a sling, the backup is a French prusik with a biner to my belay loop, below the extended ATC. Less common causes include: Rappel device issues. For a rappel extension, here we’re using a double bowline tied through the belay loop. If not comfortable or your body doesn’t allow for enough space for the prusik, extend like people are saying. Mar 5, 2025 · If I'm TRS'ing and have two devices on my belay loop, I use my tie in points; if I'm tied into a rope through my tie in points, I tie the lanyard through by belay loop. “The belay loop must have got a lot worse over the next few days,” says Hewett, adding that Skinner had belayed him on it with no problems (they spent four out of the next five days Jun 18, 2001 · The back-up prusik (french prusik/autoblock) is also attached to my harness belay loop on another screwgate. As a result, they returned with techniques and methods that were presented and adopted by the Seattle Climbing Committee: (1) the extended rappel and (2) the pull, break, under, slide belay technique. Todd Skinner. Extended Rappel w/ ATC: Clip the HollowBlock to your belay loop with a small, locking carabiner. Jun 8, 2016 · The problem with these is that a carabiner clipped to an autoblock rappel backup can get caught up in a leg-loop buckle and release it. . Jun 3, 2022 · Learn this reliable system, which includes a backup and basic rope-ascent skills, to make your rappelling safer. Since the strength of the system is its weakest link, then why do this? (Didn't a famous climber die recently because his belay loop was worn?) If the problem is the carabiner size, why not have a specialist larger carabiner for belaying/abseiling? May 23, 2023 · This involves putting the follower on a friction hitch with a backup (Haraf says, “Never trust anyone’s life to a single friction hitch!”), removing the belay device from the system, building a Munter, and using it to lower with an auto-block backup that’s clipped directly to your belay loop. A common method is to basket hitch a double length sling through your tie in points. Belay loops are uber strong, and the reality is that your body is going to break in half before your belay loop does. Auto-block - Backup when rappelling, we use the Sterling HollowBlock for this. Jul 26, 2025 · 4. Be sure to use a backup on the brake strand regardless of what method you use. That way there is redundancy should your belay loop fail, e. Two redundant loops - for anyone who’s not too excited about rappelling off of a single loop of webbing, this is an elegant solution. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. However, if you want a backup device below it on the same rope, it’s better to have a bit of separation between the 2 devices. Harness/belay loop failure. Apr 17, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. When rappelling, why would you put a prusik/autoblock below the rappel device instead of above it? On a canyoneering trip this weekend with a buddy who is a proficient climber, he insisted the best way to use an autoblock is below the rappel device on the brake strand, with the autoblock clipped to a leg loop. These days I extend and back up all of my rappels. Because it's tied in a loop and does not cinch down like a girth hitch, it's fine to use this on To backup a rappel you need to tie a friction knot like a Prusik to catch you if you let go of the rope. On multi-pitch (and even single pitch if the belayer is tied in and anchored) you will belay from your tie-in loop so it is very possible to clip the belay device to the stopper knot loop instead. Its typically better practice to girth hitch though the two loops on your harness the belay loop is looped though. ) If you're girth hitching a tether (or adjustable daisy for aid climbing) with a wider nylon sling, either the tie in points or the belay loop should be fine. Dress and cinch the figure-eight knot. (This is a crafty yet unconventional way to make a rappel extension, which we're going to cover in another tip soon. Next, rappel your main line to the ground. Apr 22, 2025 · Do NOT tie into the "belay loop" (that single, vertical loop that connects the leg loop connector to the waist belt loop). There are some newer harneses with quick release leg loop buckles that reportedly can come undone when pulled in the direction that a autoblock/prusik might exert. Belay loops must meet the UIAA minimum standard of 15kn. I find it the best way to rappel. The belay loop is specifically designed for connecting your belay device or for anchoring, not for direct tie-in with the climbing rope. g. That's why the belay device is on the end of a short extender, so that there's room for the prusik. 7mm accessory cord is around 11kn and 5mm is around 6kn to give examples of the size cord you might use to create a back up. The advantage of having it attached to the belay loop is that it’s in line with everything else, making it far more comfortable especially when wearing a heavy rucksack. This backup works best on the loop method. ) My standard back loop is: • 3-4 screwlocks, one of which is an HMS for anchor building • belay plate • nut key • prussic on a snapper • mallion + cord for bailing or replacing tat Nov 11, 2008 · After learning about this, many people ask why one might use the inside of the knot as a belay loop. Tie a back-up knot (clovehitch, overhand or figure-8 on a bight work well) in the slack rope (s) beneath you. In the case of the belayer accidentally letting go of the brake line while a climber falls, the backup belayer can hold onto the brake line and stop the rope from going through the belay device. Here's how to set it up: How to Set Up an Autobloc Backup Autobloc back-up hitch attached to harness leg loop Jan 8, 2024 · Last, extending the rappel allows us to rig a friction hitch backup off the belay loop, which is especially important given that many ultralight ski harnesses aren’t made with independent load bearing leg loops (a common place to attach a third hand). Clip a spare carabiner (non locker is fine) through the “ear” of the device, then clip that carabiner to your belay loop. and have failed? I now know of one case, and in that case it was worn long after its expected life expired. Backing up a rappel can be a bit of a hassle, but once you are used to it it becomes second-nature. Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. Three wraps is sufficient for cord; prusiks tied from nylon webbing Nov 14, 2024 · Carry a Backup Plan: If a Friction Hitch Backup proves unreliable, be prepared to use another backup method, such as a Firefighter’s Belay or Assisted Braking Device. Dec 26, 2022 · In live drop tests where the prusik was clipped under the rappel device and to the rappel/belay loop, the backup failed 100 percent of the time! Instead, clip the prusik to the leg loop on the same side as your brake hand. The loop is typically made of nylon or polyester. 1. This allows me to attach the prusik to my belay loop with a small locking carabiner. Plan ahead! The first step in avoiding any climbing incidents is good prior planning. The intricacies of rappelling demand careful attention to detail, particularly in the rigging and execution of backups. Prusik Rappel Safety - A discussion paper on using a prusik knot to backup an abseil from the rock climbing archive site. Rappelling off the end of the rope (s)—largely due to uneven ropes. Use it or loose it? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. For the rope you can climb on doubles, for the belay loop you can get harnesses with two belay loops or tie your own backup loop with cord. The sling extends the belay device above the back-up knot. This article covers everything from setup to lowering the climber, so it's perfect for beginners and experienced climbers alike. Simple, redundant and keeps your belay loop clean and clear for your third hand. However the rope solution seems pretty good and fairly effortless. It’s interesting, therefore, to see how little agreement there is about the “best” belay techniques, how distracting our assertions about belaying tend to be, and how rigidly dogmatic we can be For lowering a worker or victim who does not need tending, a single team member can control the descent using a descender on a high anchor, with an ASAP installed as a backup belay. Rap Backup - From Karl Lews web site. 6. When he reaches your stance, back up the belay device by tying off the brake strand with a figure-8-on-a-bight and clipping it to the masterpoint. If you want to back up your belay loop, use a soft shackle to make a 2nd temporary loop. Aug 3, 2023 · The belay loop plays a vital role in the safety and functionality of the climbing harness. Backing up the belay device Once I test that the VT is secure I'll remove the pulley from the belay loop and attach a rappel device in its place, secure the foot loop on a harness gear loop, and descend with the rap device/VT. Tie the tail into a backup overhand or double-fisherman Jan 20, 2014 · To prepare for this, always carry some extra gear on your harness: an assisted-braking belay/rappel device (Grigri, Cinch, etc. The ropes should now be in auto-locking “guide mode” off your belay loop. 5,6) After clear communication with the belayer, climber calls for a lower. PROS: One-handed adjustment of position; two arms for clipping into fixed lines; dedicated extension for rappel device; rated for personal protection. I also posted this in r/Climbing. To simulate this scenario, the author rigged an extended rappel device with a friction hitch backup on the belay loop. ), a backup ascender such as a Petzl Tibloc or Wild Country Ropeman, and a double-length sling to use as a foot loop for ascending the rope or unweighting the devices at your waist. In technical terrain it's always better to have a belay loop, so those without one often simply use the inside of their knot. It is, however, a great method of capturing progress if you are in the emergency situation of needing to ascend a rap line. Maximizing solo training time while excusing your partner from the drudgery of belay duties makes using an auto belay an excellent choice for anyone trying to up their training regimen or get into lead climbing without the fear of Dec 11, 2014 · On a scholarship from the Seattle Climbing Committee, two volunteer Mountaineers leaders attended an American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) single pitch instructor training course. This setup is worthy of its own post, but in brief, the extension helps add friction, allows for a full-strength backup off the belay loop, and allows me to go hands-free to untangle ropes or check anchors. Oct 30, 2016 · With an autoblocking/assisted belay device on a direct belay (off of the anchor) from above, your brake hand on the rope is the back up. Apr 8, 2025 · The Backup knot is a stopper knot tied at the end of a rope after the primary knot to prevent it from coming undone. Say you accidentally pass a rap station, and find yourself in the middle of the air at the end of your The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. The TRUBLUE Auto Belay is a great training tool for building endurance and providing a backup for learning new skills. Here's a video timestamped at 3:00. Dec 8, 2012 · Throw on a prussik unclip the biner from your belay loop now you have a whole foot or so to play with depending on the length of your sling. A Final Word Is this incident going to cause every climber out there to start wanting two belay loops, or tying a backup webbing belay loop in their current harness or throw their harness away altogether and buy a new one immediately? It shouldn't. Cinched means you've yanked all 4 exiting strands hard. Remove your third-hand backup from below your rappel device. Lost your belay device before a rappel? Do you know how to rappel with just your carabiners? Learn about the carabiner brake and munter hitch methods here. May 15, 2024 · See the “expert photo” section below. The Prusik only has to supply braking force, and a leg loop, for example, is plenty strong enough for this. Carabiners do not sit well in 2 different parts of a harness, that is why you tie into those points and clip carabiners to the belay loop. May 22, 2017 · 2) Take a dyneema sling, girth hitch it through the little hole on the atc, then redirect it through a carabiner on the top shelf of the anchor, then clip it to your belay loop. Fig. Most belay loops test well above this, in fact most test above 20kn. I don't belay with D-shaped biners for this reason, and I think the wider more even basket of a pear biner is designed for belaying and is vital for Munter hitches. Learn how to set up the device for leading, top-roping, and lowering yourself, as well as how to release the device after a fall. Mar 12, 2023 · Thank you for the suggestion. Apr 19, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Clip this knot to your belay loop with a screwgate. This manual was developed to support the ACMG’s Training and Assessment Program (TAP) courses in the climbing guiding streams, and as a reference for ACMG-certified guides. Creates a structural backup knot between each loop, in case the GriGri slips, its carabiner explodes, or to stop upside-down falls Relatively easy one hand releasing Abseiling (or rappelling) is a technique used to descend climbing ropes. Extending a rappel offers a variety of advantages, mainly the ability to setup a backup that won’t fail if you were to let go of the rope on rappel. Begin ascending by standing up in the foot loop and pulling rope up through the device to capture your progress. Jun 22, 2015 · A backup, or self-belay, that would prevent uncontrolled descent in any event where control of the brake rope is lost. Jul 23, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Then you create a 2:1 where you have a bit more leverage to control the tilt of the reverso. I recall reading an article in a popular climbing magazine about a decade ago where an IMFGA guide was encouraging climbers to stop “backing up” their tie-in knot. The most common secondary application is extending a rappel. At some point in time it became common for instructors to encourage students to keep the waist prusik in place for the complete duration of an ascent/descent activity. Not only can a backup belayer provide important pointers as you’re belaying, but they also provide a third person to double-check everyone’s belay and tie-in setups. A commonly This user's manual provides instructions for using the Silent Partner self belay device for recreational climbing and mountaineering. Then throw on a rapel device right below the trax and when you use the prussik to stand up not only do you transfer the load to the repell device you also have a back up on the repel from weighting the rope. This method uses three groups of two ‘biners, arranged in an opposite and opposing manner, to create friction in the system. Hold the small hole of the figure of 8 in your left hand. Now as far as I'm aware there is no standard in climbing for teaching people to place the basket on their belay loop. We use some type of belay in almost every roped climbing context—it is the essential skill that unites all disciplines. Jun 27, 2025 · They discussed the worn harness, talking about how people back up the belay loop with a tied sling, but neither considered it a significant safety hazard. I appreciate the flexibility, and a brotherhood knot is very low profile, so I'm never as fussed about bulk as I was with the girth hitched wide diameter original rope. Should it be inspected frequently? Of course. Inadequate back up for rappels. Never use your gear loops as an attachment point for your rappel backup. ” Additionally, you should also use a fireman’s belay at the bottom to slow you down in case you lose control. It’s important to note that it can be difficult to release a device in guide mode once it has been weighted. Make sure that you're comfortable with the basic operation of an auto belay before moving on to more advanced skills and drills. To your harness belay loop? Or to your 'rope loop'? Belay loops are strong and it doesn't triload your carabiners. Jan 9, 2024 · We'll explore "How to Belay: The Ultimate Guide to Belaying" in this extensive guide, with a particular emphasis on the tube-style device. Nov 2, 2024 · Two belay loops give you more options with daisy chain configurations and are great for any time your harness is loaded in two directions. A leg loop is acceptable only if the buckle is appropriately rated (ie not plastic) and double backed, but your belay loop is always the best choice. 2 Continue wrapping two more times, for a total of three wraps. In alpine climbing, a small percentage of climbers still use harnesses without belay loops. Prusik - Friction I've backed up my belay loop now for many years (a loop of webbing through the tie in pionts, tied off with a water knot) and recieved many comments and queeries, some people gave positive feed back and backed up their belay loop, some comments I had to disregard. Belay Loop If you're placing an autoblock on your belay loop, you have to make sure and extend your belay device when rappeling (using a sling or something like the Metolius PAS). The belay device and carabiner are highly over engineered for the purpose but they could be a point of failure difficult to back up. Attach your solo belay device to the rope, weight the rope end with a light pack or extra gear to help it feed, and clip two locking carabiners through your belay loop. In this guide, we explore the Prusik knot’s role in rope Jun 15, 2012 · Illustrations By Keith Svihovec Four As your partner works his way up the route, coach and congratulate from your perch, pulling in slack through the belay device and stacking it as he comes. The reason you use a backup is so it can hold your entire body weight plus any shock load if your hands slip off the rope or you become unconscious. Aug 4, 2019 · Using a carabiner to backup the belay loop always raises the question that if you don’t trust your belay loop then you should get a new harness. Feb 2, 2019 · Placing a prusik hitch above your rappel device might initially seem like a good way to backup your rappel. The rope is not clipped into a carabiner. Feb 22, 2020 · Clip your lead rope as you climb with the auto belay acting as a backup lifeline in case you fall unexpectedly. Reputable manufacturer's make burly harnesses—bottom line—and don't forget that there are some negatives/concerns about using two belay loops Dec 15, 2021 · In this case, the rope stretch of a fall might land the climber below the starting ledge, which may then be difficult to climb back up to. This article explains how to attach yourself to the anchor, and abseil with an ATC. May 11, 2022 · When rappelling during Climb Section outings, we prefer an extended rappel using a PAS, cord or sling, with either a “third hand” (Prusik, Auto-Block or Klemheist hitch) backup connected to the belay loop or a Fireman’s Belay from below. All modern harnesses consist of one hip belt and two leg loops. Use a locking carabiner to connect the figure 8 device to your harness belay loop. Jul 30, 2015 · The easy-to-use rappel extension freed up my belay loop for a rappel backup. If the belay loop is too strong to fail, why do we tie in to two separate points on the harness when we climb while the other end of the rope is secured to a single point? Dec 10, 2013 · If you're looking for a good way to back up your rappel and you don't have a partner available for a fireman's belay, an autobloc is a great option. Use the other locker to clip the next loop before unclipping the first Jul 22, 2025 · Harnesses: Belay Loop. Some harnesses have a specific keeper loop for the carabiner clipped to an autoblock rappel backup. Whether used in high-angle rescue, climbing, or rigging operations, the Prusik knot provides a lightweight, adaptable solution for progress capture, backup belay, and other critical applications. 1 Take the knotted end of the cord and wrap it around the rope, going through the other end of the cord, similar to a girth-hitch. Use the prusik, clipped to your belay loop, to hold you while you undo and redo the ATC. 3,4) Climber then unties her tie in knot and pulls the tail through the chains. A harness is the piece of equipment that allows us climbers to be comfortably connected to the safety system. Dressed means that the parallel strands don't cross each other. A backup belay (generally in the form of a munter) is recommended any time you need to lower with an atc in guide mode. Both leg loops are connected to the hip belt via the belay loop (located on the front side of the harness) and 2 bungee straps on the back. Or you can just both simul rap with grigris. By just using one locking carabiner and also the climbing rope, a munter hitch is used. Some people prefer to have the prusik on their leg loop, others use the belay loop. Oct 17, 2007 · So even though Metolius state that: We are building safety into the harness itself, so that there is a backup system in place, they clearly don't think the belay loop is an area that needs special attention for safety reasons. Feb 20, 2020 · 2) Climb a ties a figure 8 loop and clips it to her belay loop with a locker. How many belay loops have been weighted, fallen on, caught huge whippers, tugged, yanked, etc. The most efficient way to anchor at the top of a route is by using the rope that is attached to you and clove hitching it to the masterpoint. I climbed 4 pitches while swinging leads with it. Instead, I went ahead and girth hitched it to my belay loop. Precautions: - Do a function test on the ASAP to verify that it is installed in the correct direction - The rope must pass through a redirect point on the anchor so that the ASAP stays in the correct position The safest way to rappel with a carabiner is to perform what is known as a six-carabiner rappel. Learn how here. They are not strong at all compared to the belay loop itself. This is often referred to as a “Third Hand. But Dec 8, 2008 · Your backup prusik can either remain attached to your harness leg loop, or it can be switched to your belay loop (Leg loop?). I like to extend with a PAS and the rappel devise connected to two loops in the middle and everything connected back to the belay loop for redundancy. Apr 7, 2021 · One of the main takeaways should be to keep your belay loop free of material when you are not using it. Now as they rappel you can feed slack and have a backup belay on the munter hitch. Aug 10, 2018 · Image by @coreyoutdoors The short answer is no. Single rope with both devices one single rope - one on belay loop the other on a sling around both shoulders, double rope with a device on each. Every 15 feet or so tie a back-up knot in the strand of rope that your self belay device is not attached to. Catastrophe knots, and tying the rope directly to the anchor via Clove hitch or When passing a knot on rappel, you will do the same, with the backup figure eight on a bight below the knot to pass, clipped to your harness so you only fall 2-3 feet if your prusik fails. Familiarize yourself with the self rescue tool box on the ground in a low risk setting - at the base of a local crag is a great place to start. Rappelling without a typical belay device can be done in three ways: Just using one belay loop and a solitary rope rappel alongside your companion. Want to Jun 20, 2023 · An extension built with a double length nylon sling positions a rappel device far enough from a belay loop that almost any friction hitch backup will be effective. We’ve gone over the different ways to back up a rappel, the specific techniques to perform these methods, and some of the pros and cons of doing it a certain way. Mar 15, 2016 · The vertical belay loop also results in a belay device orientation that is centered on the belayer’s body, negating the relevance of their specifically dominant hand. This is important because if the Prusik loop gets drawn into the belay device it can get jammed, making it impossible to move up or down the rope, or it can actually prevent the Prusik from jamming and so rendering the back-up useless. The top of the ATC device will have the friction modes and the bottom will have the ATC loop facing down. Oct 18, 2019 · And, as mentioned above, using a third hand /autoblock backup is usually good practice, but it's not shown here for clarity. Why is this cool? Easy to untie after its been loaded, much more so than an overhand knot. Apr 28, 2025 · When first learning to belay, it’s crucial to use a backup belayer, or someone who is also holding the brake strand in case you don’t catch a fall. Munter Rappel: The HollowBlock carabiner gets clipped to your leg loop. This demo shows offset loops that allow for the tether to be a little longer to allow clipping to the anchor, a shorter loop for the rappel device to be extended, and then when necessary a friction hitch backup on the belay loop. Slide the loop into the top of the Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) along one side of the middle divide on the device. 4) Hold the brake strand, untie the backup knot, and sit back on the sling to release the device. You are now ready to climb. A manufacturer is not going to recommend using a 20 year old harness, but research shows that if that harness has been stored properly and not exposed to chemicals it’s fine. Rappelling backups are an ongoing topic. My fiance is not super into that yet so she uses slings girth hitched to her harness (girth The belay carabiner, which would normally be clipped through your belay loop, is clipped only through the loop of rope (two loops if using double ropes) on the inside of the device and not the belay loop. Belay loops are strong and it doesn't triload your carabiners. 4. Clip one of the lockers to your first backup loop at about the 15-foot level. For example, if you are ascending a rope, you can have your top ascender attached to one belay loop and your backup knots attached to the other belay loop. Oct 1, 2020 · A double loop bowline, tied through the belay loop (or tie in points). Do you Back Up Your Belay Loop - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. It is also reinforced and is one of the strongest parts of a harness. Warnings Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. Jun 15, 2012 · 3. Remove the figure 8 device from the carabiner. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Mar 14, 2021 · Temporary or back up belay loops are just not a solution. Stranded due to inadequate rappel rope length. Feb 27, 2021 · Grigri with microtrax, grigri alone, grigri with jumar, jumar with microtrax etc etc. You use two of the carabiners to attach to your harness belay loop, two Oct 26, 2006 · The belay loop is one of the most over-engineered, bomber chunks of climbing gear out there. Apr 22, 2025 · Backup Facts The figure eight follow-through does not require a backup knot if tied and dressed properly with enough tail (minimum 6”). If you have a plaquette style belay device such as a DMM Pivot or ATC Guide, try this: feed the rope as for a normal rappel. Two belay loops. Should I backup my rappel - Comments from climbers reproduced in Dawn's FAQ regarding backing up an abseil with a prusik (or similar) knot, above or below the belay device. Oct 27, 2006 · After playing a bit over the last 2 decades out there, I've seen situations that I described elsewhere that have inspired me to backup my belay loop, since, especially on longer routes (in the middle of a climb) or road trips (in the middle of a road trip), close inspection may not suffice. Nov 19, 2024 · It doesn’t, you can hang it off your belay loop quite happily. The belay loop is the best example. You could certainly rig the extension using an additional biner in order to avoid the girth-hitch. A guide to where you should attach your belay plate. Video - How to make a Prusik loop for a rappel backup? This video explains how to make a Prusik loop for a rappel backup. Dec 3, 2024 · Prusik Knots in Rope Systems The Prusik knot is a cornerstone of technical rope systems, widely regarded for its versatility and reliability. The nice thing about this is that if you're on a weird rap route it's a little easier for the first climber to jug back up the rope if they are off than it is with a guide device clipped back to the belay loop to make it lock as an ascender. ATC Setup for a Rappel With the rappel rope anchored in at the top, grasp the rope and make a small loop. Tie the climbing rope into the harness waist and leg loops (ie: the "hard points" - not the belay loop), with a rewoven figure-eight knot. But, there’s three reasons why this is not the preferred method. The extension makes easier to brake specially with thin ropes, keeps the ATC away from catching on anything and most important keeps it away from the friction hitch. The belay loop is the strongest part of the climbing harness, so why do so many climbers not trust it? It’s very common to see climbers backing up their belay loop with a separate piece of webbing or clipping their belay carabiner through the waist and leg tie-in points to avoid the belay loop. And I'll have a prussik backup onto the rope below the belay/rappel device, so its kinda redundant anyway. Dec 28, 2010 · If you rap directly off your belay loop then you should have the autoblock/prusik attached to your leg loop. in doing so, it cleared up my tie in loops, gave me a couple crucial extra inches on both the arms. Nov 26, 2012 · Applications: Escaping the belay, passing a knot, ascending/ descending a rope, rappel backup, hauling, crevasse rescue Fig. Attach the self-belay device to the fixed line, and clip it to the belay loop on your harness with a large locking carabiner. Dec 23, 2018 · 2) Clip a spare carabiner to your device’s “ear”, then to the belay loop. Should it have a retirement program? Definitely. Always apply proper backups, such as an extra fixed line connected to the “injured” climber’s belay loop, or a backup belay from a third person while practicing. If you're using a rope style lanyard such as the Petzl Connect Adjust, follow Petzl’s recommendation and girth hitch it to your belay loop. Climbers have been belaying for as long as they’ve been using ropes. Jan 13, 2021 · To have someone backup belay, they will grab the brake line of the rope and position themselves below the belay device. That way if the system were to fail—although failure is highly unlikely—you’re attached to the rope with a locker to the strongest part of your harness. We try to introduce reduncancy into our climbing systems Mar 14, 2025 · I also should have taken the time to time to tie a back up knot a little ways off the ground. I just recently bought the Black Diamond Big Gun harness. Do you Back Up Your Belay Loop - page 4 - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. 5. Is there a perfect way to backup Jun 3, 2022 · Learn this reliable system, which includes a backup and basic rope-ascent skills, to make your rappelling safer. I know that there are some newer harnesses that include redundant belay loops, but it is still generally considered to strong to fail. While the logic in the article was quite sound tying “back-up” knots above your standard Figure Eight Follow Through is still somewhat popular even ten years later. Feb 22, 2020 · Learn why we always back up our rappels, the knots we use and how we avoid common dangers. If this is something that you wish to do, it might be better to avoid all Jul 8, 2013 · Yet you belay and abseil from the belay loop. Clip it to the belay loop or the leg loop or to a loop of my personal anchor system (PAS)? For many harnesses, as long as you have the Prusik downhill from the ATC, it doesn't matter. Subscribe to our channel for the latest updates and more! In this video we review two ways to back up a belay device for a rappel. The belay loop looks like a thick flat ring which loops through one noose of the Mar 27, 2013 · Either way, backing up a belay loop even when every harness manufacturer would tell you it's a waste seems pretty silly to me. When you only have a locking carabiner, the munter hitch could be used as a backup belay and rappel method. The PAS allows a climber to setup their rappel device on one of the PAS loops, extended away from their harness belay loop. Likewise, belaying a leader with an assisted-braking device, your brake hand on the rope is the backup. And next time I will use 2 Mini Traxions. Oct 16, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Tying the Figure 8 Follow Through, Step 3 Now when the client comes up to rappel you can set them up with a rappel device (ie ATC) on the first rope and clip the carabiner at the end of the second rope into their belay loop. In three tests, one hand firmly gripped the friction hitch backup, which resulted in uncontrolled descent each time. Initially I was thinking that for belaying I could put another HMS crab through the rope loops and clip belay device into the belay loop as well as the crab, but it would be a lot of hassle to take it out after every belay and then put it back. You can girth hitch your belay loop, its safe. Jun 27, 2012 · 3. Wrap 2-3 times around both strands of rope (enough for it to grab), and clip other end to the same carabiner for the WAC Way. Overhand on a bight- tie an overhand every 5 or 10 feet as a knot that will block your belay device if it slips or fails. To backup a rappel you need to Jan 27, 2012 · However, I have heard different advice on where to put it, both for where to attach it to myself and where to attach it to the rope: Clip it to the belay loop or the leg loop or to a loop of my personal anchor system (PAS)? Tie it "uphill" from the belay device or "downhill"? Jan 11, 2013 · Tie one overhand backup knot with both strands of the rope below your device (A), then clip the knot to your belay loop with a locker. A friction hitch attached to your belay loop is fine, but a munter is better. Dec 12, 2022 · Now clip a locker from the guide-mode hole of your belay device directly into your belay loop. The AMGA actually recommends no backup knot because it is harder for your climbing partner to visually inspect the knot when doing pre-climb checks. A six-carabiner rappel essentially uses carabiners to create a makeshift version of a standard ATC. This video has expert advice about using an auto belay to build rock climbing endurance. Use another locking carabiner on the belay loop to clip into your backup knots as you climb. It's become second nature for me and I can't think of a good reason not to. If this is something that you wish to do, it might be better to avoid all Sep 12, 2023 · For several reasons, I set up each device with an extension and a “third-hand” backup. To me, the issue of having a backup is primary, and the issue of whether it's OK to girth-hitch to the belay loop is secondary. And I now backup my belay loop with a piece of webbing – looks like a 2nd belay loop - that acts just as a backup to the real belay loop. I currently use a single static line (I know two would probably be safer/more redundant) and I either have two ascenders on my belay loop or an ascender and a prusik as a backup. This will help with inspection and wear of the material. Jul 24, 2015 · After learning about this, many people ask why one might use the inside of the knot as a belay loop. I'm a moderately experienced canyoneer and I've Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. If you started on the right, always stay on the right side of the belay loop. The belay loop is always found in the front center of the harness. edttpoxzwyaunybnwhgvhtjdmbwunhuavwuykzhjxsblvqixuohfun