Alpinesavvy rappel.
Sep 8, 2022 · The pre-rigged rappel anchor and belay .
Alpinesavvy rappel. ) Premium Art May 24, 2025 · At some point, all climbers will have to rappel down an unknown route. Sep 24, 2021 · It might be drilled into your head that you must always thread your rope through existing hardware when rappelling, but that's not always the case. Nov 29, 2018 · Scenario: You’re the last person rappelling on two ropes tied together, and you’re worried about the knot getting stuck on a ledge or crack near the anchor. Apr 7, 2024 · The reason for the horizontal hanger is so the ring hangs perpendicular to the rock. Sep 11, 2022 · A middle mark on your rope is very important, for both setting up rappels and for safe lowering from one pitch routes. Jan 10, 2019 · Pre-rigging a rappel (known by some as a “stacked” rappel) is a common technique with guides and clients. Learn of some of the scenarios when this might be a smart move, and also how to set it up correctly. Also, learn some specialized crafty rappel tricks if you have a traverse or overhang. Jun 2, 2024 · Extending your rappel device away from your harness has a host of benefits . Even though this is designed for aid climbing and bodyweight only, the convenient pockets were too tempting to pass up. A normal multi pitch anchor doesn’t require locking carabiners on the bolts. The bolts are solid, and you're standing on a decent ledge. This anchor is only for rappelling, so the “rules” change a bit. Apparently, when the rope is loaded from below, occasional device failure can happen for the person above. This “crochets” a rope into a series of short chain links, reducing the length by about a factor of six. However, there are some nuances to doing it correctly, efficiently, and with reduced risk. Jan 9, 2019 · But, before the PAS came along, many climbers used a sewn pocket daisy chain as a personal leash. Learn all about it here. Aug 29, 2018 · It’s rare, but you might someday find yourself having to rappel two full rope lengths on a single strand. May 22, 2021 · Rappelling when you have an overhang and/or a traverse can be especially challenging. This partially secures you while you build the rest of the anchor, and you can use the top carabiner of the draw as part of the anchor. Instead, be resourceful with the gear you probably already have. ) Sep 8, 2018 · A variation of the Munter hitch is the "Super Munter", which adds a lot more friction and therefore control over your rope. Learn multiple ways to rig it, and the pros and cons of each. Rappel anchors - replace crap webbing . It's faster, because the moment one person is off rappel Sep 19, 2024 · Black Diamond recently collaborated with IFMGA Guide Mark Smiley to test the strength of different snow anchor configurations. As your partner descends, what's the load on the anchor? Is it your partner’s bodyweight, 2x their bodyweight, or something else? Apr 16, 2023 · Arriving at an bolt anchor with a small stance? A good first step can be to clip a quickdraw. But, it’s actually more of a situational and subjective guideline than a black and white rule. . Here's an acronym to check all the relevant components. Jan 16, 2019 · Plaquette style belay devices like the Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso are great, allowing smooth rappels, to be rigged as an ascender, and to autolock when belaying your second. Pay attention to the tail length. May 27, 2023 · Say you’re lowering your partner from a top rope anchor, with the rope running through one carabiner. Feb 16, 2019 · There is a right (and definitely a wrong) way to rappel with a heavy haul bag. You're ready to rappel. Jul 5, 2023 · You and your partner have a 60 meter rope, but you need to make a rappel that was bolted for a 70 meter rope. Oct 14, 2019 · Here are some ways to use a locker draw. While you can put a rappel rope directly through webbing or cord, adding a metal connection gives an easier rope pull, makes the anchor last much longer, and avoids any chance of the rappel rope (s) sawing through the anchor, which can happen if you have two ropes of different diameters. With this, you pull either side of the rope and it should feed Oct 5, 2024 · Need to shorten your connection to the anchor when using a tether? It's common to unclip and reclip your locking carabiner, but this can increase the chances of clipping it incorrectly. It works See more than 600 tips for anchors, belay, rappel, wilderness skills, mountaineering, snow & rock climbing, big wall, DIY gear making, first aid, and more. Fixed point belay at the belay station: Advantages & disadvantages – Tutorial (20/43) | LAB ROCK May 17, 2024 · Don’t load both strands when rappelling If you rappel with both strands through your ATC, it's important to remember it's a single strand rappel, and keep your brake hand and third hand/autoblock on the real climbing rope. If primary anchor holds fine for them, it should also hold for the lighter person going down second. com For the complete article: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: Sep 12, 2023 · When it comes to adding friction on skinny ropes while rappelling, it requires some practice, personal testing, and expertise. Then, bounce test the anchor, and send the heaviest person down with the biggest pack first. However, challenging terrain and conditions may require some specialized techniques. There's a few ways to back it up. Conceptually it's pretty simple. Explore expert tips, NorthWest climbing guides, and mountaineering resources to improve your outdoor skills and trip planning. Learn about this and a few other Crafty Rope Tricks (CRT) to make your next rappel have a happy ending. Works for both multi pitch and top rope. ) Jun 24, 2020 · Need to tighten or maybe loosen a quick link you find at an anchor? If you have another quick link with you, you might be able to use it as an improvised “wrench”. (This tip courtesy of Climbing magazine. There’s another application - when you're rappelling into unfamiliar terrain with the location of the next anchors uncertain or nonexistent. (Warning: anchor nerds only. and a few problems. However, each person is clipped to 1/2 of the anchor system, with no redundancy. But, it has some benefits that crossover well to recreational climbers too. But, there’s a few more tricks than the standard set up that can make your life easier. I'm using about 2 meters of 6 mm cord to make an equalized, redundant and plenty strong enough rappel anchor from a stopper and piton. Feb 15, 2024 · On multipitch rappels, you can save a surprising amount of time by using a few simple time-saving techniques. This added friction can make your rope pull more difficult, but it also reduces the force on the anchor, which can be a good thing. Below is a typical set up, with one locker draw Mar 8, 2023 · A simpler method that uses what you already would carry: Extend your rappel with a 120cm sling like shown in the alpine savvy article, be sure to tie a butterfly for ease of untying. Here's a simple but unconventional technique that can allow teams to pass each other with greater speed and reduced frustration. Nov 27, 2018 · Rappelling with a group , especially with newer climbers, can take a L O N G time. One other option is the self-lower. On a larger diameter rope, lowering extra heavy loads like haul bags or two people at once On a smaller diameter rope, lowering a person or rappelling Rappelling Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Try this. Nov 17, 2018 · It's best practice to run your rappel through some sort of metal connection to the anchor. Dec 31, 2018 · Note on stacked rappels and ONE stopper knot: This may well be the best solution of all for multi pitch rappelling: Both partners (or at least the second) use an extended rappel and pre-rig with an autoblock backup. Dec 23, 2022 · With experience, it is acceptable to rappel off a single V-thread, but always implement an unweighted backup anchor clipped loosely to the rappel rope for the first person (s) down to fully test the V-thread. It’s from a German climbing magazine, here’s the original. You can probably clip the bottom chain links with a large HMS carabiner and simply use that as your master point. I first heard of this trick from @tiffany_hensley, thanks Tiffany! Nov 11, 2018 · It might first appear like a bit of rope sorcery - How can you attach a rappel ring to a sewn runner? Each one of them is a closed loop! Read and learn, young Jedi. Here are some solid tips to hopefully get you down in one piece, without creating too many (epic) stories to tell later. Let's take a closer look. But a top rope anchor, which may be unattended throughout the day and have many people climbing on it, may benefit from having at least one locker draw. Albin is a Swedish IFMGA Guide Candidate, and he shared with me the details of how he dealt with this. Learn a few here. Having the second person with their rappel device already on the rope and an autoblock fixes both strands of rope for the first person down, and the rope therefore can never slide Yes, we hate to leave gear behind, but if you HAVE to leave your beloved #3 Camalot for a rappel anchor, then do it without hesitation. If you have a tree, you can walk around it, or if that's not possible, put a long sling / cordelette around it and clip the rope to the sling with a locking carabiner Jun 14, 2019 · Often in alpine climbing, making shorter rappels can minimize the chance of your rope getting hung up. This really comes into play on multi pitch double rope rappels. Ideally, rappel hardware is perpendicular to the rock. Backup with friction hitch. In this case, many people would be just fine with each partner clipping to one bolt as shown, and rigging to rappel. You can usually find him in the mountains around Chamonix. Here are a few. Dec 6, 2022 · Petzl makes two highly specialized ropes suitable for alpine climbers, the RADline and the PURline. Then, either clip or clove hitch yourself to the draw. Learn how here. This post covers: anchor shelf on a tree, “casting” (not throwing) a rappel rope, block leading tip, proper tails on flat overhand knots, and a caution on girth hitched rappel rings. Mar 27, 2022 · Lose that leg prusik! Did you learn in Climbing 101 to always carry a leg and a waist prusik loop so you can ascend a rope in a self rescue situation? Truth is, these are rarely needed, especially in rock climbing. Rigging a “courtesy anchor” can make things easier and safer for just about everyone. Here is a simple, fast and unconventional way to get past the knot. See 400+ more climbing tips like this at AlpineSavvy. This post covers: quad anchor tips, pre threading your haul pulley, the twist-free Munter rappel, how to cut webbing, and a caution on ‘open” slings. We cover toprope locker draws at this post. As you start your double rope rappel, clip your tether carabiner to the rope that needs to get pulled. Oct 24, 2018 · Using a cordelette is standard practice for many climbers when building multi-piece gear anchors. In this case we’re using a rock horn. The primary reasons to use this: Prevent the belayer from being violently yanked into the air, slammed against the rock, and potentially being injured or even losing control of the belay Reduces the force on lead protection due to rope slippage Allows a greater chance of actually holding a factor 2 fall. Here are several of them, in a great little diagram from the clever Petzl web gnomes. Here’s how to fix this. Dec 13, 2022 · Long lengths of skinny rope, such as a 6 mm rappel pull cord, can easily turn into a hopeless tangle if you're not careful. Feb 8, 2024 · Belaying the LEADER directly from the anchor is known as a “fixed point” belay. Jan 8, 2024 · Continuing our dissection of ski mountaineering rappel systems, we explore various options for rappel extensions/tethers and third hands. Main concept: keep yourself close to the wall by placing gear. But when you need to, there are some specific requirements. Nov 26, 2018 · Rappelling on ropes with two different diameters can cause the rope ends to be uneven, which could be a problem if you have a full length rappel. Oct 19, 2018 · Does your larger climbing team have two rappels ahead to make it to safe ground? Here’s a simple way to speed up the process. However, if your tether is short, and/or the anchor is awkward (or even on the ground Aug 16, 2023 · Rappel anchor is flat against the rock: How to rig for the easiest rope pull? . While some people feel strongly you should always use your tie in points, the truth is that the “best” method depends on a few different factors. Connect with Albin on Instagram: @albinthunander. This makes it easier to pull your rappel rope. Learn how to craft and modify equipment for mountaineering, climbing, and adventure activities. Nov 27, 2018 · On longer alpine climbs, bringing a cordelette gives you a ready-made source of material for rappel anchors. One of you keeps the “pull” pressure on, while the other suddenly releases their end. Nov 22, 2019 · Redundancy is one of the tenets of anchor building, for good reason. Oct 1, 2020 · Attach a locking carabiner and rappel device to the double loop, and your anchor tether locking carabiner to the end of the single loop. It may not have much application in day-to-day climbing, but in certain situations, it is a very useful tool. What’s a pre-rigged rappel? It’s when everyone on the climbing team (or, as many as can comfortably fit near the anchor) attaches their rappel device to the rope at the same time with a rappel extension. All climbers need proper training and equipment, and to take personal responsibility for their choices. It has a host of subtle benefits, and it's a Crafty Rope Trick (CRT) well worth adding to your toolbox. Yes, the overhand bend will pass THROUGH the Munter hitch and carabiner! (Like I said, Crafty Rope Trick for sure!) If you're lowering someone, if they can stand up for a moment Aug 29, 2018 · It’s rare, but you might someday find yourself having to rappel two full rope lengths on a single strand. Dec 12, 2023 · The always terrific Petzl website has a specific caution against a pre-rigged rappel with a Grigri on top. This website offers information and ideas (not advice) intended to reduce your risk when climbing. Check out a recent article and video by Over the Edge Rescue on this. ) Dec 26, 2024 · Rappelling isn’t the only way to get down a cliff. Apr 22, 2019 · From cleaning up messy rappel anchors to cutting away your partner a la Joe Simpson, carrying a knife for emergency or rescue purposes can be a fine idea. Oct 8, 2023 · Alpine Savvy Oct 8, 2023 Rappel safety check: be sure BOTH rope strands are clipped to your carabiner . Aug 18, 2023 · Rappel ring overview . Do yourself and everybody else a favor: cut away everything that's questionable and add some new material of your own to make an anchor that's more reliable and easier for others to inspect. But, the strand you pull can make a difference in avoiding snags. In reality there are some nuances, and definitely some ways to letha Mar 29, 2019 · Here's another crafty way to secure the rope strands - a stacked rappel (aka pre-rigged) with an autoblock. Older PostsJoin my email - get a Premium Article sampler Oct 13, 2023 · “Dang it, which rope strand do we need to pull, I forgot!” Here's a simple way to remember. Aug 22, 2022 · When you need to rappel the same route you just climbed, the transition at the top can often be a big time suck. There’’s no need to pull up the strand that's fallen down, tie a stopper knot in it, and re-throw it - a big time saver. Solution: the daisy chain. Aug 31, 2023 · Pre-rigged rappel for an awkward rap station . Good news: there are some easy ways to eliminate this problem. Jul 16, 2021 · Here’s a quick and effective way to make an anchor with your rope around an extremely sturdy single point anchor. Nov 27, 2018 · Your big wall lead rack is pretty darn heavy, and it's going to be stupidly heavy if you take every single thing you need on a long, hard pitch. Sep 1, 2021 · The sharp edge might damage your rope, and if you rappel, the extra friction might make it impossible to pull your rope down. Please, never consider doing this and always leave behind a $5 carabiner instead. May 2, 2025 · A basic guideline for anchor building: narrow angles are good, wide angles are bad. Alpine Savvy. While you can put a rappel rope directly through webbing or cord, adding a metal connection gives an easier rope pull, makes the anchor last much longer, and avoids any chance 116K Followers, 651 Following, 1,010 Posts - John Godino | Helping you climb better, safer and smarter (@alpinesavvy) on Instagram: " ️ 550+ climbing tips on website ️ No ads, paid promotions or other fluff ️ Get a free sampler of top Premium articles ⤵️" Jan 7, 2019 · Doing multiple raps on a rope without a middle mark? Take a moment to add a temporary one so you can set up faster and safer rappels. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em. Dec 27, 2018 · Having a standard system to check your rappelling set up before you head down the rock is a fine idea, especially for beginners. It works best when you have a long tether and a well situated anchor: about chest height, and a nice ledge to stand on. Learn how it works, along with some cautionary notes. Here are some tips to hopefully get you and your partner down in one piece. Apr 14, 2025 · Quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. Watch the video for a scary mom Nov 23, 2024 · You’re rappelling, and unexpectedly came to a damaged section of rope that you didn't notice from above. Jan 14, 2021 · A flat overhand bend is a good choice for connecting two ropes for a double strand rappel. In-person instruction from a qualified instructor is strongly recommended for any Jan 26, 2019 · Most climbers don’t give much thought as to which strand of the rope they pull after a rappel. Here are a few tips how to use it, including the not so obvious way to open the bottle. May 17, 2024 · Using a skinny pull cord, in combination with a regular climbing rope, allows full length rappels with reduced gear and pack weight. While that’s generally true, it turns out in some cases, a very narrow angle is not so good for load sharing. With this, you pull either side of the rope and it should feed Oct 22, 2021 · Pre-rigged rappel for an awkward rap station . If you're worried about the bolts connect them with an Alpine draw and/or back it up with something. (Sorry there, last person . See examples of strong and simple rigging here. If you rappel smoothly on a dynamic rope, the anchor will only see about 1-2 kN, and the direction of force will always be down. Try to assist the tails of the rope through the carabiner, but do it carefully so your fingers don’t get caught. But, there’s three reasons why this is not the preferred method. The belay anchor general principle of striving for “three good pieces“ doesn’t necessarily apply to a rappel anchor. And hey, the sling as a whole is rated to 20+ Kn, right?. Here are some good ways to do this. See 400+ more tips like this at alpinesavvy. Here's just about everything you need to know about these ropes. Dec 23, 2018 · Sure, on a bluebird day, standard rappel practice is probably going to work fine. ) Apr 26, 2019 · Here's a photo from my article on alpine retreat anchors. Rappelling overhangs and/or traverses - part 1 What if you rappel over the lip of an overhang and find yourself swinging in space, unable to reach the rock? Or what if the rappel anchor below you is Rappel anchors - replace crap webbing . Instead, just take a light tagline, and pull up gear as you need it. Here's one way to use this tool: the second is lowered with an ATC on the anchor and the rope through the anchor hardware. (I recently heard a story of a standard safety check that fortunately noticed this critical error, so it's on my mind Oct 16, 2020 · Many climbers love their Grigri for sport climbing, but think that it's 1) too heavy and 2) single purpose to bring for a long alpine route. Mar 5, 2024 · Yikes, your rope got damaged near the middle from rockfall, and for whatever reason you have to keep climbing up instead of rapping down. This post covers: 1) rappel anchor backups, 2) route hardware bolting tips (stainless steel!), 3) using “rack pack” carabiners, 4) a crafty Klemheist hitch variation, and 5) how to rack an adjustable tether so it won’t trip you up. Here are some more detailed tips about how to handle it. Is this really true? Let's take a closer look at why bringing a Grigri might be a smart move for alpine climbers. Dec 27, 2021 · Creating redundancy in rappel anchors Say you have a rappel anchor like the one shown below. Strength loss from knots in webbing and cord Here’s a nice diagram drawn by IFMGA Guide Georg Sojer @sojercartoon from an article by German mountain guide / Bergfuhrer Chris Semmel of the German Mountain and Ski Guides Association (“Verband Deutscher Berg und Skiführer” or “VDBS”). Jun 22, 2025 · So how strong is the girth hitch master point? How about if one strand gets cut? Can you girth hitch a sling to a carabiner (and survive?) Here's an overview of various flavors of anchor rigging, and links to actual break testing. The simple question is, what's your life worth? Feb 15, 2022 · Snarled rappel ropes suck! To avoid them, take the time to stack the rope and toss just a weighted end, rather than a large coil. Oct 13, 2024 · This noggin-scratcher was solved in real life by Albin Thunander. The greater the angle, up to about 90°, the less force is put on the anchor. It's a great rule for most climbers in most situations. But they do have one major drawback - if you need to lower your second, it's generally not safe, easy, nor intuitive to do so. When you run a weighted rope through anchor point (s) with the bottom link (s ( lying flat against the rock like this, the rope drags at these two spots and starts spiraling, which can put some serious pigtails in your rope. Learn essential rappelling skills with our expert guides, tips, and tutorials for rock climbing, backcountry, and mountaineering safety. Do yourself and everybody else a favor: cut away everything that's questionable and Aug 31, 2023 · Alpine Savvy Aug 31, 2023 Pre-rigged rappel for an awkward rap station . With the bunny ears rig, the small loop knots are usually fairly easy to untie, giving you more rap anchor material. Warning: Climbing is dangerous. Now, before you roll your eyes about this being an old-timer technique from Apr 29, 2019 · Especially on alpine routes, you can count on occasionally finding a rappel station with just a single marginal connection for the rope. The pre-rigged (aka “stacked”) rappel, can improve speed and reduce risk in certain conditions. The general concept: the more Mar 24, 2025 · A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. The “pre-rigged" (aka stacked) rappel . Both have a static Dyneema core, both are 6 mm, and both are designed for different applications. Feb 2, 2019 · When the knot connecting the ropes arrives at the carabiner, continue lowering (or rappelling) slowly. Explore DIY gear making and modification tips for outdoor enthusiasts. b 1) Bolted top rope anchor. Sep 8, 2022 · The pre-rigged rappel anchor and belay . Jun 8, 2022 · When rappelling, often the rope is going over a ledge. Think of it as “casting” a fishing line; there's a weight on the end, and the line spools cleanly from the reel. Many of the tips here are appropriate only for those with prior experience. Learn about Note on stacked rappels and ONE stopper knot: This may well be the best solution of all for multi pitch rappelling: Both partners (or at least the second) use an extended rappel and pre-rig with an autoblock backup. But, if you have ropes of significantly different diameters, are rapping with an extra heavy load, or just want a little extra confidence, here’s an excellent, easy-to-tie alternative. Here are a few options. Yikes, your rope is too short, whaddya do? One answer: the extended rappel. Jun 17, 2023 · A rope block (aka Reepschnur), is a technique where you block one strand of your rappel rope to prevent it from running through the anchor. com . You and your partner grab opposite ends of the ropes and pull, hard. Do yourself and everybody else a favor: cut away everything that's questionable and Jun 7, 2020 · Find yourself at a chain anchor with a single huge ring or two equal lengths of chain? Lucky you, your anchor building may have gotten a lot easier. Discover expert tips, gear guides, and route maps for big wall climbing and mountaineering on Alpinesavvy to enhance your skills safely. Learn some of the factors that may influence this choice, and see some examples of non-redundant anchors in action. Oct 18, 2019 · If you forget your rappel device, drop it (whoops), or maybe you’re on a really long alpine climb with just a short rappel and don't even want to bring one to save weight (Mt. Mar 26, 2020 · A belayed rappel is something many climbers think might be helpful only with a nervous beginner who needs the extra reassurance of a belay, or maybe an injured partner. It's good practice to backup the rappel anchor with another solid piece or two when possible. For the complete article: 1) Go here: Mar 25, 2019 · There are times when lowering, rather than rappelling, is a smarter way to get down a route. You want it at about 30 cm, or the length of your forearm; not too short and not too long. Here’s a Crafty Rope Trick (CRT) to cut that time almost in half. What’s a pre-rigged rappel? It’s when everyone on the climbing team (or, as many of them as can comfortably fit near the anchor) attaches to the rope at the same time with an extended rappel. This lets you do a single strand rappel on the other side. There are a few considerations, pros and cons, learn ‘em here. However, some rappel situations, such as: a single strand wet/icy rope skinny rope cold hands no gloves forgot your third hand friction hitch backup wearing a heavy pack or dangling a haulbag a rescue where you have the weight of 2 climbers on the rappel rope dark an icy, slippery slab a knuckle scraping overhang Jul 23, 2025 · Stuck rappel rope? Try the “rubber band” trick You start to pull the rap rope, but can’t get it moving. Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. Feb 7, 2019 · What’s slick about this system? You always have two points of contact to the rope (three, after you tie a backup knot, and technically four, because you’re tied into the end) You can lower yourself/rappel if needed with the Grigri at any time It requires a minimum of gear, most of which you probably already have on a big wall climb It uses some mechanical advantage to raise your weight You Mar 3, 2019 · Extending a rappel anchor master point over a ledge can make for an easier rope pull, but a tougher start to the rappel. Aug 11, 2018 · The flat overhand knot (formerly known as the European Death Knot, or EDK) is a fine choice for general rappelling. All you need is a friction hitch, long sling, and a modern belay device like a Grigri or “guide-mode” style belay device. A daisy chained rope is pretty much impossible to tangle when stored, and easy to deploy when you need it. Not as good as pliers, but probably better than just your fingers. Some of the results were pretty surprising! THE WEIGHTED LOAD-STRAND-DIRECT LOWER Watch on 1/14/19 Ascending on Rappel Watch on 1/13/19 9/19/18 Apr 6, 2023 · Do you need to do some improvised rope ascending? You don't need a designated waist and foot prusik cord. Olympus, I'm looking at you) the somewhat old-school technique of a carabiner brake can offer a smooth rappel with gear you already have. Here's one that doesn’t involve leaving a precious carabiner behind. Here’s a fairly common mistake which can have a lethal outcome: clipping one, but not both, rope strands into your carabiner when setting up a rappel. 1,918 likes · 2 talking about this. The highly advanced technique of lead rope soloing is one way to solve this unfortunate and unlikely situation. The last person to rappel removes the unweighted backup, relying only on the tested V-thread. Click the “Get Skilled” menu link to get started. This is typically a substantial tree or unquestionably strong rock horn. Apr 24, 2023 · It's common to find a mess of cord and webbing at some alpine rappel anchors. Jul 7, 2023 · The “backside clove hitch” offers several options for efficient transitions from climbing to descending. Sep 22, 2024 · Someday, you'll find yourself at a rappel anchor that is Less Than Ideal. ) Try this #CraftyRopeTrick to move the knot past the Aug 9, 2019 · Need to move your team from a safe spot out to an exposed rappel station? From the crafty rope trick experts at Petzl, here’s one way to do it. Jan 7, 2019 · The “backside clove hitch”? Is that something you might find in a San Francisco leather bar? Nope, it's a new approach to transitioning from climbing to rappelling. Rappel anchor is flat against the rock: How to rig for the easiest rope pull? . The traditional method of each climber using a tether/PAS to connect to the anchor, each person untying from their respective ends of the rope, threading the anchor, tossing each rope strand, and then each person rigging for a rappel separately, involves a LOT of steps and (usually Feb 2, 2019 · Placing a prusik hitch above your rappel device might initially seem like a good way to backup your rappel. Interestingly, it shows that cord is May 15, 2025 · Five more quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. There’s three common options for this; learn the pros and cons of each one. Longer is not better, and has been the cause of fatal accidents. Here's a trick to mitigate that problem even further. Climbing tips and navigation resources for the savvy alpinist Mar 2, 2025 · Retreat (aka bail) anchors or not something you hopefully do very often. Jul 21, 2020 · Do you need to rappel, lower off, or redirect a lower from an anchor rigged like the top photo? Be prepared for some possible rope twisting. This sets up the rope perfectly for the leader to rappel. (In the Portland Oregon area, the rappel off of Rooster Rock in the Columbia River Gorge has a notorious knot-eating crack at the top, and is a great place to use this technique. Here's a simple and more secure method. Yes, you can probably use a Sharpie pen, but an easier and longer lasting option is the Beal rope marker. Now the first person can rappel with Grigri on a single strand. It's common to find a mess of cord and webbing at alpine rappel anchors. Apr 24, 2025 · In most rappels, getting the rope down is pretty straightforward: give each strand a toss and hope for the best. A better approach is to be more creative with multi-use gear you're already carrying. May 15, 2024 · What seems like a pretty simple question, “What's the best way to connect a tether to my harness?”, turns out to have no single answer. How would you get past it? Here’s one method. The second person rigs an extended rappel with autoblock, and puts both rope strands through a standard tube device. grxqpektfdbkoniwazrjglkbrbvpqciarqhdhnqkfqbadk