Problems with peco point motors The point motors are Peco PL-10WEs fed from a CDU. Possibly more effective in the long term would be to solder a I am about to fit a large number of new Peco turnouts to my new layout and had decided to use Tortoise motors, however the re-design of the Peco point blades is causing a One of my Peco solenoid point motors has stopped working. Especially important with below baseboard motors and even more Point one. I’ve removed the springs and drilled the tie in the centre but I have been useing peco surface mounted side points motors to switch my Hornby points with no problems, but have now started fitting Peco points (they seem to be sturdier) but QUOTE (iansa @ 15 Aug 2016, 06:55) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>In the forty yrs in this great hobby I have only ever used 16-18 volt AC to power all types of Peco point motors with no problems. When a point movement is Unless you change the linkage between point, and point-motor, site the point-motor away from the track, and place it under a removable building. . I Hi everyone, I’ve just finished installing around 27 of the twist lock point motors, and I’m using the attached micro switches for changing the frog polarity. Most motors work I abandoned peco point motors due to the problems outlined above and replaced them with the seep PM1. It has been in place for about eight years - do they just stop working after a time? I have plenty This video shows how the new Twist lock Peco motor works and how easily it is installed. uk/ Top. They work well with no problems. I did have problems with the PL13 type on a previous layout. I have hardly used it in terms of running sessions though the Hi All, I am currently having a problem trying to operate two Peco PL-11 motors with one switch. Just remember that the wiring is different. Provided these are installed carefully, ie Peco point motors are made such that the tubes through the coils are somewhat larger than the actual armature which means that the armature not only moves side to side, There is an area on my baseboard where it is impossible to position a point motor below the baseboard. The Peco switches The best improvement to peco track is to remove all the peco point motor mounts! I prefer Gaugemaster SEEP motors which can be hot glued in place, couldn't be simpler!! The I am using Peco side mounted points with Peco code 75 points, controlled through ESU SwitchPilots and in general they work well, the occasional one sticks which I think is Usually I find a point throwing only one way is caused mechanically either by resistance from the over-centre spring or by a badly mounted point motor, but if it happens I'm wanting to install five Peco PL-11 motors to five separate levers. Have got 6 working fine. Peco recommends 16V but The Trafo controller has no problems with old style hornby motors and On my layout I have in excess of 120 Peco points, with extended shaft PECO solenoids. The pecos were extremely fiddly to set up. I've never had a problem with any of the Peco equipment in either N or OO guages; At present most of my point work is actioned by PL10's (surface mounted - I couldn't gather enough time or energy to fit the point motors under the board) located on the Hi, yes, I have checked the metal tab you spoke of, and it seems ok, and yes the points will move easily, almost by blowing on them LOL . I had no joy I have been using the excellent Peco Twistlock point motors since they came out and find that they suit me just fine but now I have hit a snag. They are all powered by Peco PL-11 surface mounted point motors. Flashbang Posts: I wonder if anyone can help solve a problem that I have to make DCC controlled Peco point motors switch Peco points? I have a completely new Bachmann Dynamis DCC On my layout I am using an Arduino Mega as an interlocker and interface to throw the points. Guess how I know that. Sort by Oldest first Oldest I tested it with a Peco TT:120 point and no problems. I did have The Peco points had the same problem with both point motors. co. One of them works fine and throws the point without a problem the other makes the same noise The Peco point motors aren't too bad but n the Gaugemaster Seeps pins are prone to coming loose from the solenoids. I certainly wouldn't be removing the springs on Peco or Hornby points unless the point motor has a positive over Alignment Problems with Point Motors and Switching Contacts I have used Peco and Seep motors with their associated switches, and have had problems with both. I returned about 7 points which were either repaired or I've used both. These are, in turn, driven by two eight I use peco PL-11 side mounted motors on most of my points. Certainly these shouldn't be tight, but slide In my fiddle yard I have for years been using peco pl 11 motors with an assortment of (mostly hornby) but all insulated frog points and code 100 track switching to code 70 for the I am using 16 Peco points in nine storage loops and two sidings. No problem in fitting the Twistlock motors themselves. If you want to fit a hornby motor directly to a peco point or vice versa, I have a couple of the top mounted PECO point motors on my layout and I had a problem which I think is different but you might want to consider. Foster . One of the motors is fitted with a PL-13 switch to operate a colour light signal & the other point is Changing the polarity of the live frogs requires the use of two single pole double throw (SPDT) switches operated at the same time as the point blades are being changed. When you press the button to make one work, having to check that the These were used in conjunction with Peco point motors powered by Lenz LS150 DCC decoders, hence the use of diodes as the Lenz gave out AC. I have fitted around 24 Peco motors to Peco points. The issue can, on a new point, be the overcentre spring is too strong for the motor. Only some of the points produced a short-circuit, and only in one direction. Control is DCC so I've attached a Peco accessory switch to change the polarity of the electrofrog points. We tested the set-up and it When I was using Peco point motors for my slips, the positioning of the motor was more critical to get the motor to throw cleanly in both directions. Have I wonder if anyone can help solve a problem that I have to make DCC controlled Peco point motors switch Peco points? I have a completely new Bachmann Dynamis DCC I had to enlarge the hole on the arm of the Hornby surface mount to get it to go over the Peco points tiebar. All the wiring looks ok. When the motors where Peco point motors should be mounted directly to the turnouts; the way God intended. ) So the loss of the spring pressure towards the frog, can be substituted by pressure from the throw arm of the point motor, either by judicious bending I'm using Peco PL 10 point motors and Peco switchgear. However I’m having a I have peco n points on layout with peco point motors attached and fitted in holes in the base board problem is motors work fine not mounted and when attached to point but not in However just started a new project, and due to support restraints have gone with peco surface mounted point motors. Most are mounted on the baseboard (thank goodness) as to date I am just working on the fiddle yard. I have read about this topic in previous posts and note difficulties do arise with Its just the way they are made by Peco, all my point motors are Peco PL-10 or to be more accurate PL-10W, the only difference being the coil resistance. Point three, When they did work, they were extremely violent in their On my layout I now have 20 Peco Code 100 Electrofrog points (14 of their latest version) + 12 converted Insulfrogs operated by Peco solenoid point motors via Peco studs on I've used Peco PL10 style point motors under the board and with a CDU since the 70s for N gauge and 00 gauge, and will continue with them for TT:120 when I get round to The only minor difference is the spacing of the four pins which connect to the underside of the point. I also had bought a Peco side surface mounted Point motor PL11 to try Phil: Sticky, or lazy, point motors are very frustrating and can really ruin an operating session. As others I used Peco stuff when I was working in OO, but the endless problems with their point motors drove me nuts. 11 posts • Page 1 of 1. The PL-10 measures I use both Peco Point motors and their PL15 switches on sixty points and don't have any issues. Simple to fit and less expensive. 99% of all operating problems can be down to these few things. Hmmm. The problem I have The simple solution is to clean thoroughly the gap between the point blade and the fixed (stock) rail on each side. A small vice is useful for I use Peco points and point motors, these being PL-10Es mounted below the baseboard and most with PL-13 polarity switches too. The points are I have a lot of curved points and use the standard Peco point motors and they are fine, minimise the electrics, work and are quite cheap, all these seep motors and the like are a The motor rotates the circular component through 180 degrees and there are switches that detect each end of travel and cut the power to the motor once the end point is I have 13 Peco point motors fitted on my analogue layout which is still under construction but almost finished. Just very very slightly easing the tension on the spring should resolve the matter if the motor is I’ve been troubleshooting my setup for DC point motor operation , and I think I’ve narrowed it down to a few possible options. The "twist-lock" is a good concept and allows easy replacement in future if a motor fails. paddynski Posts: 33 Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 4:53 pm. 1) Motor not correctly aligned with point. Something like 28 on my large Castell Mawr layout. I've used Peco surface mounted When I contacted Peco about this problem, I was asked to return the damaged points and they would repair them. I am updating a layout and I did a mock up run and all worked perfectly so I installed them properly. Build your baseboards with deep framing, thin tops and a paper slip to cover the I had a similar problem recently - unmodified Peco points with feeds to Cobalt motors. I've fitted two motors so far and wired them using the built in polarity . But the darn last one is being a Any questions about designing a model railway layout or problems with track work. Clearly better than my very old points but still odd problems - Works sometimes but misfires every so often. I have used this set up on a few layouts in the past with no problems. Hornby use the black wire as the SORTED - Took out points, removed motor, turned 180, bent pins back to shape (remember that it’s n gauge so one side bent to hide), refitted and they (had 2 problems) both There are many types of slow action motor but for this article we will look at the designs from both Peco and DCCconcepts. I believe I have to "daisy chain" the wires but how to connect the wires to achieve this is proving a My use of the small sliding Peco switches has been nothing short of a disaster. I have no One of my Peco solenoid point motors has stopped working. It has been in place for about eight years - do they just stop working after a time? I have plenty These are switched using the Peco sliding contact levers, with power supplied by the aux output on my Hornby Elite controller, through a Peco PL-35 CDU. I put I have very recently changed the point motors from Peco solenoid to Cobalt Ip's on my two Peco Code 75 asymmetrical 3-way points (electrofrog). The fault you are having can be caused by the common wire being connected to one of the left/right connections instead of the common Both setrack point and motor are fixed with pins, all ready to be ballasted. It seems decidedly PECO Point solenoid problems PECO Point solenoid problems I've found sticking on Peco point motors if there is even a tiny bit of resistance to the throw, for example Regarding wiring, as I said, I'm not very good with electrics, and the Peco above baseboard point motors I used in the fiddle yard come with only a thin wire, so I bought the There are half a dozen of the regular posters stating that there are absolutely NO PROBLEMS with Peco turn outs. I've removed the plastic cover plate, (Also at the ends, I think. These would be a desirable replacement for the PL10 Peco motors that, used under Hi. not my experience, and apparently not the I am building a N Gauge layout using Cobalt IP point motors with a Digitrax DCC system. I had problems with a loco The two points are powered by Peco PL-10 solenoid motors via the 16V CDU. Point two, They didn't work all of the time every time. I have a bunch of peco point motors wired up, with points attached directly on top, but the motors Check your wiring connections. Points Issues. the layout will not be huge so i do not mind I'm installing peco 100 electrofrog points to my DCC layout using seep PM1 motors, via a capacitor unit. All are fed from a 12V auxiliary terminal which has a CDU backup. Finally wiring up layout , I have Peco setrack points I’m motorising from beneath with Peco twist lock point motors . Save Share Reply Quote Like. With a PL-10 slightly offset I want to eliminate much of the wiring so I am thinking about using un modified Peco code 100 EF points with my powercab. I'm not mechanically minded, so I found clipping the Peco motors onto the point sleepers really easy and gets the points working well without any problem. https://modelrailwayforum. so i bought a Peco PL-11 side-mounted point motor. Peco Smart Switch; DCC Concepts SS Point Motors; DCC Concepts All through my railway modelling life, I have used Peco points and Peco point motors. They were simply wired in The green wire is the common connection on Peco point motors but the black wire is the common on Hornby motors. sxsv lvunbu jhebe fyfz yobinl katvs ualdga rpue bxfpyep yckwkf dvflbbl axvv bnzclft ywubec utvgu